If we knew then what we know now, many of Australia’s established grape varieties would never have been planted. This is a controversial statement, tendentious even, but it is true. Which brings me to those varieties better suited to a warming climate in an already dry land. As importantly, to those varieties yielding wines worth getting excited about. While it is no secret that I hold grenache in greater esteem than any other red cultivar (at least in contemporary Australian terms), fiano is among the great white hopes.