Place of Changing Winds

This extraordinary high-density vineyard is slotted between Mount Macedon and Mount Bullengarook. It’s the brainchild of the committed and obsessive Robert Walters, the founder of importer Bibendum, boasting a dazzling array of boutique wine luminaries in its portfolio. Through his many connections and much research comes Place of Changing Winds, known as Warekilla in the local Wurundjeri language. It’s a rocky site at 500m elevation, surrounded by forest. The whole farm covers 33ha but vines comprise just 3.1ha, planted to 44,000 vines. A high-density site of pinot noir and chardonnay, ranging from 12,500 to 33,000 vines/ha: there is nothing like this in Australia, or even in Burgundy (where 10,000 vines are deemed high density). No expense has been spared and the level of detail is nothing short of extraordinary. Robert also sources syrah and marsanne from Heathcote, through a long-term relationship with a grower at Colbinabbin. Named Best New Winery in the 2022 Companion. -JANE FAULKNER