Praeter.

Matt Large is unstoppable, a whirlwind of vinous energy. To be in his orbit is time well spent if you like wine, but particularly if you like nebbiolo and discussing its clones. Quietly under the radar since ’18, Praeter. was established through exploration to understand the nebbiolo grape and how it performs in Australia’s climate. ’24 saw Matt leave his day job at Shaw + Smith (see separate entry) to pursue his label full-time, and the portfolio has grown in quantity and quality. He is particular about the sites he farms; his ‘Block’ series is a testament to his dedication and fastidious craftsmanship. In addition to pinot noir and chardonnay, he makes mind-bending varietal and field-blend whites – precision and a deft touch both defining features. -KATRINA BUTLER