2023 Varietal Winners

Top Rated: Cabernet Sauvignon

By The Tasting Team

The distinguished cabernet sauvignon and its blends rank second only to shiraz as Australia’s top-performing variety this year. Flying solo, the dominance of Margaret River is complete, claiming more than half of the coveted positions in our best-of line up.

Second and third places rightly go to Coonawarra and Yarra Valley respectively, albeit both well behind Margaret River in sheer numbers. Hence it was an unexpected and refreshing outcome that the three contenders to come forward in our final judging would hail from Langhorne Creek, Pyrenees and the Yarra Valley. Even more surprising that the single Langhorne Creek listing in our top 28 should rise all the way to the top. No surprise at all for anyone who’s avidly following the rise and rise of 2018 Winemaker of the Year Paul Hotker at Bleasdale. 

2023 Best Cabernet Sauvignon of the Year in Australia

Bleasdale Vineyards The Iron Duke Cabernet Sauvignon 2020, Langhorne Creek

98 points | Price when tasted $79

2020 Bleasdale Vineyards The Iron Duke Cabernet Sauvignon, Langhorne Creek

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Every now and then, a wine makes my heart skip a beat. It’s the confluence of all the elements – the aromas, the flavours, how it feels, how it makes me feel, everything perfect poised. And of course, the X-factor. The magic stuff, which can’t be decoded. Take a bow the wine team at Devil’s Lair. A stalwart producer yet flying under the radar when it really shouldn’t. Here’s the reason why – this is the epitome of elegant Margaret River cabernet. A harmonious blend of mulberries and cassis, baking spices, and cedary oak which is superbly integrated. The mid-weighted palate is finely tuned with beautiful, shapely tannins and acidity stretching out to a lingering finish. Devil’s Lair is on a roll, get onboard. Although, bittersweet as I wish the wonderful Simon Robertson (who passed in '24), its long-time viticulturist could have witnessed the success of this wine. – Jane Faulkner

The 2023 Halliday Wine Companion is available now. Secure your copy of Australia's most comprehensive wine guide here – and at all good bookstores.

Learn more about cabernet sauvignon in our essential guide.

*This is an edited extract from the 2023 Halliday Wine Companion, with reviews by Dave Brookes, Jane Faulkner, Ned Goodwin MW, James Halliday, Erin Larkin, Jeni Port, Philip Rich and chief editor Tyson Stelzer.

Top image credit: Wine Australia.

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