St Agnes Distillery XXO Exceptional Old Reserve Brandy
At 50 years old, this is, to my knowledge, the oldest Australian spirit ever released, and by a wide margin. The mahogany colour indicates plenty of oak, which pays off on the nose – this is far woodier than the younger releases. Forest floor and an attic full of antique furniture creep out of the glass, and perhaps monsters lurk here. Please don't approach unless you like oak. But there’s Cherry Ripe, too, and that St Agnes creaminess I love. On the palate, it turns out the monster wants to hug you. Sure, it smells of sandalwood and leaf litter, but it’s a soft hug nonetheless, and the tannin on the finish is incredibly creamy, like an excellent cup of black tea rather than a dusty old bit of wood. This is perfectly true to style and an outstanding achievement by any measure.