Wine Lists

12 wines made for summer that aren't riesling

By Ned Goodwin MW

4 Oct, 2018

Master of Wine Ned Goodwin reveals his top drops for the approaching warmer weather. 

With warmer weather on the horizon so the visceral urge to plunder the fridge in search of thirst-slaking wines gathers urgency. The question is ‘What to drink?’

I seek pleasure in wine, while bearing in mind the need for mineral-clad, energetic whites, or reds that swoon with crunchy fruit notes etched by savoury, gentle tannins.

These are the sort of wines that bring a grin on their own, while parrying with the pungent heat, crunch and sweetness of South-East Asian fare and other lighter foods enjoyed across the warmer months.

Here are some favourites:

Beach Road Greco

Stone fruit and fennel aromas thread across a viscous mouthfeel, tapered with a herbal twine. 

Topper's Mountain Petit Manseng

There are two cuvées. One done in barrel, the other fermented in tank. I prefer the latter as it promotes the tangerine tang of this great Basque variety. As a uni student in Paris, jurançon sec was a go-to and this is every bit as good! 

Ravensworth The Grainery

For me, the finest white Rhône blend in the country. 

Harkham Semillon

Chamomile and lemon curd aromas reverberate across a more generous palate than most Hunter sémillon. Minimal, racy and compelling.

Tulloch Vermentino

A real surprise. This is peach, nectarine and Meyer lemon careening along mineral rails. 

Mount Majura Mondeuse

A Savoie indigène, drinking like an alpine syrah with the pulpy flesh of a great beaujolais. 

Sorrenberg Gamay

An Australian icon. Among my top five wines in the country. Thrilling young; highly complex after five to eight years in the cellar. 

By Farr Rising Gamay

Rides a prickly whole-cluster attack to a kernel of crunchy red to dark fruits nestled within.

Castagna Roussanne

Superb thrust and parry of textures: mineral, phenolics and leesy breadth. Very long. Thrilling wine! 

Mada Nebbiolo Rosé

Just drink in large drafts! A lick of volatility brings verve to wild berry fruits and a scrubby rasp.

Koerner Pigato Vermentino

Meyer lemon, anise and stone fruit toned by a skinsy grip. Liguria meets Sardinia meets the Clare Valley!

Sassafras Savagnin Ançestrale

The finest pet-nat in the land.