Despite being an hour outside the city, the Yarra Valley’s metro-Melbourne classification means its wineries, cellar doors and restaurants have been unable to operate properly for close to two years.
“We are used to dealing with adversity," says Murray Lyons of Whispering Hills. "Grape oversupply issues in the 2000s, frost, botrytis, drought and, of course, phylloxera. However, while we are mentally prepared for difficulties and challenges in agriculture, [Covid] surmounted all the above.”
Boat O’Craigo’s Travers Graham recalls the uncertainty of the first lockdown in March 2020. “I remember thinking, what’s going to happen? How will this affect our team and culture? What will we do with our staff? How will this affect our cellar door, winery, and vineyard operations?” he explains. “It was all so vague and there didn’t seem to be anywhere we could go to get clear answers.”
As lockdowns became a part of life, so did the importance of pivoting. “Our main tool was continuous reinvention and optimisation of our business, which allowed us to create a cash safety net for subsequent lockdowns,” says Brad Atkins of Steels Gate.
With 90 per cent of their sales derived via their restaurant and cellar door, they immediately upgraded their website and e-commerce platform. “Creating an online platform for our members and customers drove more, and new, engagement. We focused on member benefits and the overall end-to-end customer experience early on, adding virtual wine tastings, hampers and Friday night takeaway.”
At Mandala Wines, Charles Smedley says that while nothing beats being at the winery in person, the pandemic opened new ways of communicating with wine lovers. “Digital marketing will be a big focus looking ahead, particularly the creation of video content for both the domestic and international market,” he explains.
For Whispering Hills’ Murray and his wife Marie, the hit to their business was significant, particularly when indoor dining came to a halt. They then turned to a new product line, launching The Yarra Valley Soap & Candle Co. range of wine soaps, including chardonnay and pinot noir. “The wine soaps have changed the look, feel and aroma of the cellar door,” Murray says. “It also helps us to diversify our income stream.”
Wine club memberships are another important income stream for many wineries, and while there were fears this would be a luxury many would drop, people instead rolled up in droves. “Whether to self-medicate to get through lockdown or to support us, existing wine club members purchased well above their committed volumes, and we were quite successful in attracting many new members. This was both a surprise and a relief,” says Travers of Boat O’Craigo.
Ralph Zuccaro of Six Acres says their existing customer base offered a vital lifeline. “Our biggest learning has been to keep the communication with our supporters ongoing, to make sure you are not forgotten among so many other vineyards.”
Staff were also a key focus. Steels Gate’s Brad says while their Friday night takeaway was important for their business, it wasn’t financially profitable. “The benefits were ongoing staff engagement and brand visibility,” he explains. “It gave our chefs time to develop and trial new and exciting dishes for our reopening.”
At Boat O’Craigo, Travers was proud that his cellar door staff were happy to jump into other parts of the business, particularly in vineyard operations. “We maintained regular remote contact with all our staff and, during the intermittent times when lockdown was lifted, we organised team gatherings to rebuild those precious connections that are so important.”
As for what’s next, TJ Holmes from Soumah is anticipating a busy phase. “People will always want to go out for a great meal and drink really good wines. After being locked up for so long, we have the city of Melbourne on our doorstep and we are only an hour away with amazing views, food, and wine,” she says. “Even when international borders reopen, I think there will still be strong support from Australians to visit their own backyard along with an influx of people wanting to travel around Australia.”
The pizza at Boat O'Craigo, where maintaining team connection was vital.Over at Whispering Hills, even though lockdowns have allowed the team to catch up on maintenance and replanting, Murray is excited about welcoming visitors back. “I am most looking forward to talking to people again and watching the joy they experience drinking wine with good food,” he says. “I think that’s ultimately why we make wine.”
Hear Dylan McMahon of former Halliday Winery of the Year Seville Estate discuss how his team has worked through the pandemic on the Halliday podcast, By the Glass.
