As ever, 10 of the best, not the best 10, chosen from a far-flung field stretching across all states (other than Queensland), with strong representation from Western Australia.

BOBTAIL RIDGE WINES Frankland River, WA
June and Jeremy Roberts were among the early movers when they diversified their Frankland River grazing property by planting grapes in 1980. They fully intended to have wine made, but farming and family commitments meant 23 years passed before any Bobtail Ridge wines eventuated. Most of the grapes from the 11.4 hectares of vineyard are sold to Alkoomi, which doubles as a highly skilled winemaker.

FLAMETREE Margaret River, WA
This is the newest of new winery ventures, a partnership between the Gordon and Towner families that resulted in the erection of a winery shortly prior to the 2007 vintage, the first (the partnership does not own any vineyards). The wines have had resounding success, the 2007 Cabernet Merlot winning multiple trophies at the WA Wine Show '08, the trophy for Best Cabernet Blend at the Margaret River Wine Show '08 and, the biggest prize of all, the Jimmy Watson Trophy, all in the same year. Jeremy Gordon's winemaking skills extend across the full range of Margaret River styles, and it is quite certain the Flametree name will continue to burn brightly in the years ahead.

HEAD WINES Barossa Valley, SA
I would not normally include a 600-case production winery in this category, aware of the frustration that might follow if the wines are no longer available. However, Alex Head has started something special, after graduating with a degree in biochemistry from Sydney University in 1997, followed by retail and auction house experience while fitting in vintages with Tyrrell's, Torbreck, Laughing Jack and Cirillo Estate. His raison d'etre is Côte Rotie at the northern end of Rhône Valley, the imagery and styles of those wines evident in every facet of his initial releases.

HOBBS OF BAROSSA RANGES Barossa Valley, SA
Greg and Allison Hobbs have pushed the envelope further than most newcomers would dream of, let alone attempt. They have 1 hectare of shiraz, planted in 1908, followed by further plantings of between 1 to 2 hectares in '88, '97 and 2004. Then they have a 0.5 hectare each of white frontignac (1940s) and semillon ('60s) and viognier ('88). Far from following the safe route and making conventional wines, they have obtained the services of Pete Schell to make an Amarone-style shiraz, and three super-luscious white wines from the three estate plantings made by cane-cutting and then further fruit desiccation on racks.

KENNEDY & WILSON Port Phillip Zone, Vic
The partnership between brothers James and Peter Wilson, and Juliana Kennedy is almost certainly better known for its chocolate than for wine. But James Wilson has a masters degree in oenology from Adelaide University and is completing his PhD in that subject; brother Peter worked at Yarra Yering from 1986 to '96. Juliana, ex-CEO of a smartcard/SIM card company, describes herself as 'manager of the worldwide Kennedy and Wilson conglomerate'. The vineyard is near Kilmore, in the no-man'sland of Port Phillip Zone. The wines reflect the unambiguously cool climate.

LANDHAUS ESTATE Barossa Valley, SA
The Jaunitis family (John, Barbara, and son Kane) acquired the Landhaus Estate wine business in 2002, followed by the purchase of the Landhaus Cottage and its 1-hectare vineyard. Bethany is the oldest German-established town in the Barossa, and the cottage was one of the first to be built. Kane worked vintages for Mitolo and Trevor Jones, also managing East End Cellars in Adelaide, a leading fine wine retailers. Every step they have taken since 2002 has been an unqualified success.

MARCHAND & BURCH Great Southern, WA
This is a joint venture between Canadian-born and Burgundian-trained Pascal Marchand, and the Burch family of Howard Park. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (and a little Shiraz) from the Frankland River/Margaret River regions of WA is to be followed by Gevrey Chambertin and Chambertin Clos de Beze from Burgundy. A thoroughly interesting business, with some inspired Chardonnays in its first releases.

MICHAEL HALL WINES Mount Lofty Ranges Zone, SA
Michael Hall was a jewellery valuer for Sotheby's in Switzerland before coming to Australia in 2001 to pursue winemaking, a lifelong interest. He graduated dux of the wine science course at Charles Sturt University in '05, and along the way obtained vintage experience at Cullen, Giaconda, Henschke, Shaw & Smith, Coldstream Hills and Veritas; his Rhône Valley experience is equally impressive. He is winemaker at Rocland Estate and makes his own wines there, which are every bit as impressive as his CV suggests.

SONS OF EDEN Barossa Valley, SA
This is substantial venture between winemaker Corey Ryan and viticulturist Simon Cowham. Corey has 22 vintages under his belt, starting as a winemaker with Henschke, then Rouge Homme and Penfolds Coonawarra, followed the Rhône Valley, and then becoming chief winemaker for Villa Maria Estates, NZ. Simon has an equally impressive career, covering every imaginable facet of the industry. With 52 hectares of estate vineyards to work with, they are making wines of exceptional quality.

SPRINGS HILL VINEYARD McLaren Vale, SA
The origin of the business goes back to 1975, when brothers Anthony and Gary Whaite began the planting of cabernet sauvignon and shiraz. Over the years they have slowly extended the size of the vineyard to its present 17 hectares, adding merlot, mourvedre and grenache along the way. The vines are dry grown, and the winemaking involves traditional small batch techniques.