2007 Kabinett
A spotlessly clean bouquet with no SO2/reduction issues; fine, delicate, crisp and refreshing - all or any of these words will do; flavours of lime juice and a touch of green apple; immaculate balance and length, with cleansing minerality/acidity on the finish.
 
2007 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spatlese
Delicious blossom fragrance, the palate luscious, rounded and supple; lime juice with lots of honeyed richness, then a long, penetrating finish.
 
2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese
Has great precision and focus, with notes of apple, apple skin and lime; an entrancing twist of acidity on the finish.
 
2007 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese
A very complex wine with exceptional length, which in no way diminishes the luscious richness of the mid-palate. The complexity expresses itself with the strong minerally streak which weaves its way through the wine and emerges strongly on the finish.
 
2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese
A glorious palate, with succulent tropical fruits on the mid-palate offering great richness; in the typical Prum style, the finish is clean and crisp.
 
2004 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spatlese
Radically different to any of the '07s, no surprise, of course. There is some reduction/SO2 residue on the bouquet, which is quickly dispelled by the rapier-like acidity on the palate, which accelerates through to the very long, lingering finish. Displays tension and minerality, and will be very long-lived.
 
2004 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese
Obviously, considerably richer and rounder than the Spatlese; the greater sweetness slightly diminishes the impact of the acidity, but without threatening the balance of the wine.
 
2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spatlese
An unexpected burst of spice on the bouquet, reminiscent of the wines from Urziger Wurtzgarten; rich and complex, but, other than that spicy note, somewhat closed at the moment.
 
2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese
Enlivened by a touch of spritz; stone fruit, peach and apricot notes come through strongly on the palate; like the Spatlese, demands time.
 
1985 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese
Surely on the plateau of perfection; sweetness and acidity are seamlessly woven on the citrus and honey flavoured mid-palate; the minerally acidity thrusts through on the finish and aftertaste.
 
1994 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese
Brilliantly pale colour; a very fresh and youthful bouquet, a hint of reduction left to emphasise the minerally qualities of the wine; elegantly austere, with a twist of lemon; perhaps this is how the '04 will taste in 10 years time.
 
1995 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese
Developed yellow-gold; a complex bouquet and palate with dried fruit components and some spicy notes; no doubting the impact of the acidity, which was aggressive in the first few years of the wine's life.
 
1997 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese
A move back to polished perfection; glorious, gently ripe citrus fruit/stone fruit/nectarine amalgam; the overall sweetness and acidity are seamlessly fused and balanced. The '07 10 years on?
 
1983 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldkap
Brilliant green-gold; still in perfect balance, although initially you wonder whether the fruit is hinting that it might be starting to dry out; that is a worry which disappears on retasting. The Goldkap wines, incidentally, are what Australian producers might call Reserve wines.
 
1995 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldkap
Like the 'white cap' '95 Auslese, deeper gold; a vibrantly rich and incredibly luscious palate, a long way in front of the white-capsuled wine - hardly surprising. Has layers of fruit across a rainbow of flavours.
 
1998 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldkap
A difficult wine to come to terms with thanks to the suggestion of a touch of cork taint. An exceptionally lively palate, with a hint of spritz still lingering; initially danced on the tongue, but the dance seemed to end on retasting. Almost certain there are better bottles of this wine.
 
2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldkap
A truly profound bouquet, not the least intimidated by reduction; again there is a touch of CO2 spritz, but the wine floats on the tongue. A prince of rieslings.