Top 100 - 2004
Introduction
In my recently released 2005 Australian Wine Companion there were 377 new winery listings. The 2004 Companion had 240 new entries, the year before 180. It is a parabolic curve, and there is every indication it will continue through to next year at least. If an additional 400 wineries were to make their maiden appearance, it would mean 1200 have come into existence in the last four years, more than the total between 1840 and 2000.
Small wonder, then, that 1258 wines were submitted this year, breaking the previous record by over 200. this, I might say, is despite the fact that I must necessarily restrict the invitations to enter the Top 100 to around 200 of the best-performed producers, and even then beg them to only submit a limited number of wines which they consider to be their very best.
If I were not to so restrict the entries, it is certain 3000-plus wines would arrive on my doorstep, creating a logistical nightmare, and the necessity of tasting 150 wines a day for 20 consecutive days in a month which already has five wine show commitments - an impossible situation.
Enough of the mechanical stuff. The schedule may have been demanding, but this was the most memorable of all Top 100 tastings. The high point was the 2002 vintage, which right across south east Australia produced superb red wines in seemingly endless volumes. It was largely due to this vintage (with support from 2003) that I was able to turn the price clock back, and reinstate the $20 and under red wine section. (In recent years I had to increase it to $25).
The outcome is a really strong group of reds $20 and under ($19.99 is $20 so far as I am concerned). There are also some great bargains in the $20-30 segment of the above $20 group, and indeed most of the way up the price scale to the rarefied heights of Hill of Grace and Grange.
All of this is reflected in the number of very high scoring red wines, with 95 and 96 points far more frequently given than in prior years. You have to go back to the 1996 and '98 vintages to find roughly similar outcomes.
The message with the white wines is decidedly less cheerful when it comes to the 2004 vintage. This was a year in which big berries and big bunches resulted in high yields; the growing conditions were perfect, and there was a bounce-back after the drought-reduced 2003 vintage. Right across Australia the message has been much the same: well-made whites with nice structure and good length, but lacking positive varietal fruit flavours. I hope that those I have chosen from 2004 are the exceptions to prove the rule.
The result has been a higher percentage than usual of older vintage whites chosen (1987 to 2003), in most instances sustained by the long march of the screwcap, used on 65 per cent of the selected white wines. It is of course true that the best chardonnays from 2004 are yet to be bottled and come onto the market, and may lead to some re-assessment. The most telling area is sauvignon blanc, one of the most rapidly growing sectors, but without a single representative in the above $20 category (although there are two semillon sauvignon blanc blends, one from 2004, the other from 2002).
For every wine selected, there were another three or four of similar price and quality (except Hill of Grace and Grange). Often the choice was driven by a deliberate desire to provide a balance between big companies and small, between cool and warmer climate styles, and between varieties. No small-to-medium winery has more than two selected wines (although some could easily have three or four on pure quality terms), but some of the big five have significantly more, taking 20 of the 88 available Australian spots.
It is a far from perfect system done on the back of the proverbial envelope, and on looking back it seems Orlando Wyndham and Beringer Blass are under-represented once all its brands are taken into account. Particularly in the case of Orlando and Beringer Blass nothing should be read into the absence of wines, although Beringer opted not to submit its best Wolf Blass wines (Platinum or Black Label).
At the other end of the spectrum come the steadily increasing number of virtual wineries, which I used to call 'warehouse' wineries. Here grapes are purchased from independent growers, and made in a shared winery owned by a third party or group. The only capital investment is in the oak barrels, but there is a considerable amount of experience among the creators. Journeys End and Zonte's Footstep are prime examples.
So I present this year's Top 100 with utmost confidence, and suggest it shows an industry well-equipped to deal with the ever-increasing challenges in its all-important export markets.
Finally, I have added website addresses/phone numbers to help track down the hard-to-find wines; it is a condition of entry that the wines be available for sale in December, but some will be in limited supply.
Key to closure abbreviation - C Cork, S Screwcap, SY Synthetic, TT Twin-Top Cork
Whites $20 and Under
A neatly balanced mix of chardonnays and semillons (four each); sauvignon blancs/sauvignon blanc blends and semillons (three each); and pinot gris, viognier and colombard (one each). Most come with screwcaps, and while some are at their best right now, others will repay cellaring. Cheap does not mean nasty.
Lindemans Bin 95 Sauvignon Blanc 2004
87 points $9
It may seem paradoxical that cheaper sauvignon blanc should have fared (relatively speaking) better than upmarket examples in 2004, but that appears to be the case. The wine has obvious tropical varietal fruit on both bouquet and palate; a slightly thick finish does not unduly detract from the overall impact.
Drink now SY
Drink with deep-fried calamari
www.lindemans.com.au
Zilzie Buloke Reserve Chardonnay 2004
89 points $10
The Forbes family has been farming Zilzie Estate at Karadoc since 1911, diversifying into grapes with 250 hectares, initially contract planted for Southcorp, since moving into large-scale winemaking with much success. Bright yellow-green, the lively, fresh melon and nectarine fruit palate has a particularly good, crisp finish.
Drink now S
Drink with smoked salmon
www.zilziewines.com
Nepenthe Vineyards Tryst Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2004
92 points $13
The back label shyly confesses that there is a small amount of pinot gris also present in the blend; perhaps the tryst led to a marriage of convenience. Whatever, the result is a rich array of tropical fruits and abundant flavour; the long finish is neither coarse nor phenolic.
Drink now-2007 S
Drink with scampi
www.nepenthe.com.au
Tyrrell's Old Winery Semillon 2004
89 points $13
Tyrrell's makes a far greater range of semillons than any other producer in the Hunter Valley (or elsewhere). Its experience and extensive grape sources shine through here, with stylish lemon and herb flavours, a brisk, light-bodied palate, and lively, crunchy acidity to lengthen the finish and aftertaste.
Drink now-2012 S
Drink with steamed mussels
www.tyrrells.com.au
Primo Estate La Biondina 2004
89 points $14.50
While predominantly colombard (as the wine used to be called), La Biondina now incorporates lesser amounts of riesling and sauvignon blanc. As ever, it is fresh, crisp and lively, with slippery/squeaky mouthfeel, and a clean, dry finish and aftertaste. The ultimate summer and seafood white.
Drink now S
Drink with crab salad
www.primoestate.com.au
Ferngrove Vineyards Frankland River Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2004
93 points $15
Ferngrove is going from strength to strength, most recently measured by its outstanding success across the board at the recent Qantas Wine Show of Western Australia. A clean and aromatic tropical passionfruit bouquet leads into a fresh, crisp palate with herb and grass joining the band of flavours.
Drink now-2007 S
Drink with lemon-marinated fish
www.ferngrove.com.au
Paringa Estate Peninsula Chardonnay 2003
91 points $15
How does an estate-grown wine (from Paringa's Callanans Road Vineyard), 100 per cent barrel-fermented in French oak, 20 per cent new, come at this price? Forget the gift horse; the elegant, moderately intense grapefruit and melon palate is perfectly balanced, the fruit having eaten the oak. Fantastic value from a top producer.
Drink now-2008 S
Drink with smoked trout
www.paringaestate.com.au
De Bortoli Gulf Station Chardonnay 2003
91 points $17
Gulf Station is the second tier of 100 per cent Yarra Valley-sourced wines for
De Bortoli. It is a wine which has developed very well over the past nine months; nectarine, melon and citrus fruit and subtle barrel ferment inputs have grown in complexity, the palate finely structured and very, very long.
Drink now-2008 S
Drink with tempura
www.debortoli.com.au
Chalkers Crossing Tumbarumba Chardonnay 2002
94 points $18
This is absolutely ridiculous; how can a wine of this quality and price still be available notwithstanding previous selection in the Top 100? It is showing no sign of tiring, as intense and long as ever. Citrus and nectarine fruit are the drivers, French oak in the back seat.
Drink now-2010 TT
Drink with Gravlax
www.chalkerscrossing.com.au
McWilliam's Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Semillon 2000
93 points $18
Has now largely emerged from its transition phase from youth to the first years of maturity, improving markedly as it has done so. Ripe lemon/citrus fruit aroma and flavour attests to the dry vintage, the smooth and supple palate braced by the lively acidity essential to the style.
Drink now-2008 C
Drink with smoked eel
www.mcwilliams.com.au
McWilliam's Regional Collection Clare Valley Riesling 2004
95 points $18.50
In prior vintages it has been the Eden Valley version which has gained more accolades, but this year I, at least, prefer the Clare Valley wine. It has crystal clear varietal character, offering lingering lime juice and grapefruit flavours with a minerally acid cross-cut, giving structure and length.
Drink now-2015 S
Drink with antipasto
www.mcwilliams.com.au
Tahbilk Viognier 2004
90 points $19
The number of producers of viognier grows day by day: as at 2003, 540 hectares produced just under 3900 tonnes, or roughly 270,000 cases. As this wine shows, Yalumba doesn't have it all to itself; highly aromatic, it is laden with peach pastille mid-palate fruit, the finish clear and uncluttered.
Drink now-2006 S
Drink with quiche lorraine
www.tahbilk.com.au
Knappstein Hand Picked Riesling 2004
94 points $20
The grapes for this wine are predominantly estate-grown, the remainder from selected growers; the outcome is a blend of Clare and Watervale fruit. It has a fragrant and floral bouquet of apple, lime and passionfruit, and a delicate but intense palate of pure riesling fruit.
Drink now-2012 S
Drink with grilled whiting
www.knappsteinwines.com.au
Leasingham Bin 7 Riesling 2004
95 points $20
The cool 2004 vintage coincided with larger than usual berries, bunches and hence yields, which bunch-thinning only partially overcame for those who bit the bullet. This has more potent and powerful fruit than most, with intense mineral and citrus aromas and flavours, the palate deep and long.
Drink now-2014 S
Drink with asparagus and prosciutto
www.leasingham-wines.com.au
O'Leary Walker Watervale Riesling 2004
94 points $20
With two O'Leary Walker Rieslings in the frame (the other from the Polish Hill River subregion) my choice fell on the Watervale wine. Pale straw-green, it has a lively, fragrant, spice and citrus bouquet, and a fresh palate with tingling fruit and crunchy acidity; overall delicacy and finesse.
Drink now 2010 S
Drink with gazpacho
www.olearywalkerwines.com
Seppelt Coborra Drumborg Vineyard Pinot Gris 2004
94 points $20
The long-established Drumborg Vineyard in Victoria's Henty region has been a corporate labour of love for Seppelt, for the very cool region can provide real challenges. On the other hand, this spicy, flinty, floral wine has exceptional length and intensity, and could only come from such a climate. Simply outstanding.
Drink now-2007 S
Drink with oysters
www.seppelt.com.au
Tyrrell's Reserve Stevens Semillon 2000
94 points $20
It is no surprise to find that this wine has won trophies and gold medals at the toughest shows for semillons, the Hunter Valley and Canberra National. Elegant but intense lemon/acacia aromas lead into a similarly fine, intense and long palate, still with a decade, cork permitting.
Drink now-2015 C
Drink with salmon terrine
www.tyrrells.com.au
Whites Over $20
An white winemaking technology is second to none, whether it be in the aromatic, tank-fermented rieslings, semillons and other unwooded white wines, or with barrel-fermented and matured chardonnays. While some of the selected wines already have bottle age, all will repay further cellaring, with particular confidence for the screwcap-finished wines.
Wilson Vineyard Polish Hill River Riesling 2004
95 points $22
Another switch from my normal preference (slight though it may be) for the Wilson DJW wines. Its bouquet has bell-clear notes of spice, lime and mineral; the palate is very long, as is the lingering aftertaste. As with all these rieslings, bottle age will invest the wine with great complexity and texture.
Drink now-2014 S
Drink with caesar salad
www.wilsonvineyard.com.au
Houghton Frankland River Riesling 2001
94 points $24
Anyone who ignores the quality of riesling which comes from the Frankland River subregion of Western Australia's Great Southern does themselves a disservice. A fascinating array of floral honeysuckle and passionfruit aromas have developed with bottle age, and which flow through to the utterly expressive and distinctive palate.
Drink now-2011 S
Drink with stir-fried prawns
www.houghton-wines.com.au
Seppelt Drumborg Riesling 2004
96 points $24
Whatever uncertainties there may have been about the intensity of 2004 white wines in South Australia, they do not apply to this wine. Intense, fragrant and flowery aromas announce a brilliantly poised and focussed wine and its long citrus and mineral flavours. Shines like a diamond. Exceptional value.
Drink now-2019 S
Drink with sashimi
www.seppelt.com.au
Pewsey Vale The Contours Museum Release Riesling 1999
96 points $25
Yalumba was the commercial pioneer of screwcaps more than a decade before the public was prepared to accept them; its experience with the closure shows in this beautifully developed wine. A super-intense, fragrant and complex bouquet is matched by the great grapefruit, lime and herb palate and penetrating finish.
Drink with blue swimmer crab
Drink now-2009 S
www.pewseyvale.com
Keith Tulloch Semillon 2004
95 points $26
The Hunter Valley Wine Show is the ultimate testing ground for semillon. Repeated success here for the best known producers (Tyrrell's, McWilliam's) is only to be expected, but the production minnow Keith Tulloch achieves it too. Sophisticated crafting results in a silken web of complexity and an alluring future.
Drink 2009-2019 S
Drink with sauteed scallops
www.keithtullochwine.com.au
Montalto Chardonnay 2003
95 points $27
The Mornington Peninsula is coming into is own as the vineyards mature and (perhaps) as the climate warms. Experience, too, is playing a positive role. This wine has a fragrant, delicate yet intense array of white peach and grapefruit aromas and flavours marry with perfect, almost sweet, acidity. Quite delicious.
Drink now-2008 C
Drink with salmon ravioli
www.montalto.com.au
Cullen Margaret River Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2003
96 points $29
A blend of 54 per cent semillon and 46 per cent sauvignon blanc, 34 per cent fermented in new French oak, 23 per cent with wild yeast, almost inevitably produces a multi-dimensional and complex palate; the skill is the retention of citrus and passionfruit in a superbly fresh and balanced palate.
Drink now-2008 S
Drink with sugar-cured tuna
www.cullenwines.com.au
Brokenwood ILR Reserve Semillon 2000
96 points $35
ILR are the initials of Iain Riggs, chief winemaker and chief executive of Brokenwood for over 20 years. Made specifically for late release, it is brilliant green-yellow, spotlessly clean and still youthful, with lemon and lanolin aromas, and touches of toast and honey lurking in the shadows.
Drink now-2012 C
Drink with bouillabaisse
www.brokenwood.com.au
Howard Park Chardonnay 2003
96 points $35
Howard Park winemaker Michael Kerrigan is making a seemingly endless stream of top class wines right across the varietal spectrum. A seamless and super-fine palate reflects precision engineering of nectarine fruit and barrel-fermented French oak; the epitome of elegance, and at the start of its life.
Drink now-2010 S
Drink with slow-roasted Tasmanian salmon
www.howardparkwines.com.au
Shaw & Smith M3 Vineyard Chardonnay 2003
95 points $35
Sauvignon blanc, Martin Shaw and Michael Hill Smith agree, makes itself once the vineyard delivers. Here the roles are in part reversed; the complex, intense and tight aromas and flavours of stone fruit, melon and fig interlaced with cashew and spicy oak in the background; a fine example of winemaking.
Drink now-2009 C
Drink with seafood risotto
www.shawandsmith.com
Voyager Estate Margaret River Chardonnay 2003
96 points $38
Situated in the viticultural equivalent of harbourside real estate, adjacent to Leeuwin Estate, in Australia's best chardonnay region. It is an elegantly constructed and perfectly balanced wine; the fruit has soaked up all the new French oak in which the wine was fermented, driving through on the long, lingering finish.
Drink now-2013 S
Drink with seafood risotto
www.voyagerestate.com.au
Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2004
96 points $39
Often slower to open up than its Watervale counterpart, this year the roles seem to be reversed, but without compromising the cellaring potential of this wine. Potent lime and apple blossom aromas flow through into the palate, where flecks of herb and slate add to the complexity of the long finish.
Drink now-2014 S
Drink with vegetarian terrine
www.grosset.com.au
Lake's Folly Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2002
96 points $45
Lake's Folly has never entered wine shows, but it would be fascinating to see a toe-to-toe contest with Tyrrell's Vat 47. Bright green-yellow, this proclaims its class from start to finish, with immaculately handled barrel ferment oak supporting white peach fruit and fine acidity.
Drink now-2009 C
Drink with Chinese baked fish
www.lakesfolly.com.au
Tyrrell's Vat 1 Hunter Semillon 1997
96 points $45
The three selected semillons (from 2004, '00 and 1999) graphically demonstrate the majestic way the variety develops in bottle, but do not for one moment think this wine is at the end of the road. Brilliant green-yellow; herb, lanolin, toast and lemon aromas precede a brilliantly fresh and lingering palate (cork permitting).
Drink now-2010+ C
Drink with New Zealand whitebait
www.tyrrells.com.au
Chardonnay by Farr 2003
96 points $50
This is the patriarch Gary Farr's wine (as opposed to Bannockburn and son Nicholas' Farr Rising) but there is a strong family resemblance: full frontal and uncompromising, with more than a passing nod to Burgundy. Fabulously rich, tapestried stone fruit and nutty/creamy texture and flavour make a wine of great distinction.
Drink now-2012 C
Drink with sweetbreads
Cullen Margaret River Chardonnay 2002
96 points $55
The strong performance of the Margaret River in the Top 100 simply reflects the magic union between variety and region, the skill of Vanya Cullen making it even stronger. Here complexity reaches the highest level, malolactic and barrel ferment inputs coalescing with the fruit on the marvellously textured palate.
Drink now-2014 S
Drink with grilled spatchcock
www.cullenwines.com.au
Leeuwin Estate Art Series Margaret River Chardonnay 2001
97 points $76
Australia's best Chardonnay and an outstanding vintage in Margaret River caused me to quickly put my money where my pen is. This is close to perfection, its classic restraint simply pointing to the long term future, as layers of complexity will build on the perfectly balanced silky stone fruit and high quality oak.
Drink now-2016 C
Drink with avocado and prawn salad
www.leeuwinestate.com.au
Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay 2001
96 points $100
Yattarna was a long time in gestation, and the first offspring haven't all matured as Penfolds might have wished. By all rights, this should do so, building on its super-refined and elegant creamy cashew and melon fruit, the oak inthe background where it should be. A wine of headline purity.
Drink now-2011 C
Drink with milk-fed veal
www.penfolds.com.au
Reds $20 and Under
Not only was I able to choose 19 red wines for $20 and less, but most are considerably under $20 without pinching the value for money ratio. As might be expected, shiraz dominates the group with seven varietals and two blends, but cabernet sauvignon and blends accounted for another six, leaving room for a rose, a pinot noir, a merlot and a sangiovese.
Hardys Voyage Cabernet Sauvignon Petit Verdot Merlot 2003
87 points $6
Offers the same jaw-dropping quality-for-price as its sister wine, Voyage White. A blend of cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot and merlot (remarkable in itself at this price point) it has a smooth and soft mix of raspberry and plum fruits and soft tannins, the seeming absence of oak irrelevant.
Drink now SY
Drink with ravioli
www.hardys.com.au
Long Flat Wine Co Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2003
92 points $10
I thought the previous first-up vintage of this wine was a never-to-be-repeated flash in the pan courtesy of the 2002 vintage. Not so; this equally astonishing bargain has abundant varietal plum and spice aromas and flavours, offset by a pleasingly savoury finish sustaining the length and aftertaste.
Drink now-2006 S
Drink with braised rabbit
www.cheviotbridge.com.au
Kingston Estate Shiraz 2003
88 points $11
Sourced from unspecified premium regions, but no doubt with a substantial Riverland component, something which no longer needs apologies, as grape quality continues to improve thanks to competition. There is unexpected weight and structure to the palate, with plenty of ripe, black fruit flavours, even if it does shorten fractionally.
Drink now-2008 C
Drink with gourmet sausages
www.kingstonestatewines.com
Houghton Cabernet Shiraz Merlot 2003
90 points $11
What is good for the (Moondah Brook) gander is good for the (Houghton) goose, both part of the Hardys group and sharing the same viticultural resources. Abundant and expansive red and black fruits provide delicious mouthfeel and flavour; fantastic value for a lovely drink-now wine.
Drink now-2007 C
Drink with beef spare ribs
www.houghton-wines.com.au
De Bortoli Windy Peak King Valley Sangiovese 2003
89 points $12
A number of tastings over this year have consistently appealed for this wine from a variety which isn't easy to grow and make well. Above average colour presages a palate with supple red and black cherry fruit, the tannins fine and gently spicy. An enticing fruit-foremost style.
Drink now-2007 C
Drink with wild mushroom risotto
www.debortoli.com.au
Water Wheel Memsie Shiraz Cabernet Malbec 2003
90 points $12
Peter Cumming has quietly and unostentatiously gone about making his ever-reliably very good value Water Wheel wines for 15 years. This wine has special appeal, with its powerful but restrained array of dark, black fruits; overall firm structure and tannins around a core of sweetness.
Drink 2006-2011 C
Drink with stir-fried beef
www.waterwheelwine.com
Carbunup Crest Margaret River Merlot 2003
89 points $12.50
Once again, Carbunup Crest comes up with red wines offering excellent value, particularly in the context of the Margaret River. Sophisticated winemaking produces a full-flavoured palate with red and black fruits, a twist of olive, fine tannins and a hint of sweetness. Ready to go right now.
Drink now-2007 S
Drink with lamb kidneys
Hardys Oomoo McLaren Vale Shiraz 2003
92 points $13
Uses a name and label design cleverly resurrected from Hardys' 19th century archives, and draws its grapes from its original home region. Laden with plum and blackberry fruit and a wrapping of regional chocolate, it has excellent balance, depth and structure. Almost embarrassingly good value.
Drink now-2008 C
Drink with beef casserole
www.hardys.com.au
Moondah Brook Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
91 points $13
Hardys has unparalleled vineyard sources throughout Western Australia, the 'trickle-down' effect leading to the inclusion of premium material in this wine. Blackcurrant and cassis fruit are matched by fine tannins and subtle oak; medium-bodied, it has very good texture and structure. Outstanding value.
Drink now-2008 C
Drink with butterfly leg of lamb
www.brlhardy.com.au/brands/moondah.html
Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet 2002
90 points $14
Vertical tastings of Koonunga Hill at various times over the past 15-20 years underline the longevity and quality of the wine from top vintages such as 1976, '86, '90, '96, '98 and now 2002. It has excellent blackberry and blackcurrant fruit aromas and flavours, velvety tannins and subtle oak.
Drink now-2012 C
Drink with beef shashlik
www.penfolds.com.au
Judds Warby Range Estate Shiraz 2003
91 points $15
Ralph and Margaret Judd planted their small vineyard as growers for Southcorp, but have since ventured into making part of the crop under their own label. Voluminous blackberry, plum and spice fruit is supported by soft, ripe tannins and well integrated vanilla oak.
Drink now-2008 C
Drink with marinated beef
www.warbyrange-estate.com.au
Zonte's Footstep Langhorne Creek Cabernet Malbec 2003
92 points $15
A joint venture between John Pargeter (vigneron), Ben Riggs (winemaker and Zar Brooks (flamboyant marketer and inventor of the voluminous back label). Vividly coloured, the wine has a soft, lusciously sweet array of smooth and supple red and black fruits. Delicious drink now (or later, thanks to the screwcap) style.
Drink now-2007 S
Drink with lasagne
www.zontesfootstep.com.au
Charles Cimicky Trumps Barossa Valley Shiraz 2003
93 points $16
A newcomer to the Top 100, but a Barossa stalwart of long standing who has never sought the eastern states limelight, selling most locally. Densely coloured, the wine has lush blackberry, plum, prune and spice aromas and flavours, with echoes of bitter chocolate on the finish, and well-handled oak.
Drink now-2013 C
Drink with osso bucco
Pertaringa Undercover Shiraz 2002
93 points $18
Another wine from this wonderful vintage to come along in leaps and bounds over the past nine months, and with more to go. It is in archetypal McLaren Vale style, offering a melange of black fruits and dark chocolate; silky tannins help the lively mouthfeel and long finish.
Drink 2005-2015 S
Drink with kangaroo fillet
www.pertaringa.com.au
Balnaves of Coonawarra The Blend 2001
94 points $19
A classic Bordeaux mix of 35 per cent cabernet franc, 32 per cent each cabernet sauvignon and merlot and 11 per cent petit verdot. It has developed surely over the past 12 months, with great texture and mouthfeel; cedar, cigar box, spice and blackcurrant intermingle with ultra-fine tannins.
Drink 2006-2015 C
Drink with roast saltbush lamb
www.balnaves.com.au
Jim Barry Lodge Hill Shiraz 2002
93 points $20
Selected for the Top 100 little more than a week prior to the death of Clare Valley patriarch Jim Barry. A heroic style for extended cellaring, it is opaquely coloured, with powerful blackberry, black olive and earth aromas, then layer upon layer of black fruit flavours and tannins.
Drink 2007-2017 C
Drink with jugged hare
Richard Hamilton Hut Block Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
94 points $20
Ex Southcorp winemaker Paul Gordon is revelling in the quality of the vineyards owned by Dr Richard Hamilton. This is a quite lovely wine, with sweet cassis and blackcurrant flavours in an elegant frame; fine but quite intense tannins and oak provide perfectly balanced support.
Drink now-2015 C
Drink with rack of lamb
Cheviot Bridge Yea Valley Shiraz 2002
93 points $20
From the longer-established quality arm of the Long Flat Wine Co comes a wine which has improved significantly over the past 12 months. Bright deep purple-red, it has an intense, rich but not jammy array of red and black fruits and spices, supported by lots of ripe tannins and oak.
Drink now-2012 S
Drink with Irish stew
www.cheviotbridge.com.au
Charles Melton Rose of Virginia 2004
94 points $20
Always one of Australia's best roses, along with Turkey Flat, Geoff Merrill and Houghton. Vivid red-purple, it is - as ever - bursting with strawberry and raspberry aroma and flavour, yet retaining delicacy thanks to its refreshingly dry finish. The perfect summer lunch wine.
Drink now-2005 S
Drink with anything Chinese
www.charlesmeltonwines.com.au
Reds Over $20
This is the strongest group of red wines for many years, offering every bit as much value for money as the $20 and under group. It ranges from mainstream to new styles and varieties, quality being the common denominator . as with all the wines in the Top 100, the website should help you track down the harder to find wines.
Alkoomi Frankland River Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
94 points $22
Estate-grown by Merv and Judy Lange in the Frankland River subregion of Western Australia's Great Southern; likewise, estate-made. The strong colour correctly suggests a wine with a potent mix of blackcurrant and blackberry, persistent but ripe tannins giving it great texture and structure. Severely under-priced.
Drink 2007-2017 C
Drink with rosemary-studded leg of lamb
www.alkoomiwines.com.au
Warrabilla Reserve Durif 2003
94 points $22
Rutherglen has been growing durif for a century, almost as long as the variety (propagated by a Dr Durif in France) has existed. The colour is so dense and inky it stains the glass as it is swirled; the palate is massively concentrated, indeed almost viscous, but balanced by tannins, and not over-extracted.
Drink 2008-2018 C
Drink with marinated venison
www.warrabillawines.com.au
Yering Station Yarra Valley Shiraz Viognier 2002
95 points $23
Not to be confused with the multi-trophy winning reserve version, however much it has a family similarity. The very cool vintage required the skilled viticulture and winemaking evident in this fragrant, ultra-complex mix of spice, licorice and black fruits, with fine, silky tannins and equally fine French oak. Fantastic value.
Drink 2006-2012 C
Drink with braised ox tail
www.yering.com
Chalkers Crossing Hilltops Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
94 points $25
French-born and trained Celine Rousseau is now an Australian citizen, and her winemaking style is the best of both worlds. Dark red-purple, it has intense varietal blackcurrant and cassis with a cool climate twist of herb and olive, which add to rather than detract from this Bordeaux style bargain.
Drink 2007-2013 C
Drink with lamb loin
www.chalkerscrossing.com.au
Clyde Park Reserve Pinot Noir 2002
95 points $29
Clyde Park has a mature estate vineyard; fully revived after a difficult period and under new ownership, it is producing excellent wine across the board. The wine is stacked with rich, ripe, plummy fruit moving through to a stylishly savoury and lingering finish. Top gold medal 2004 Geelong Wine Show.
Drink now-2009 C
Drink with roast squab
d'Arenberg The Galvo Garage 2002
95 points $30
An 'in-joke' name for a Bordeaux style blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, petit verdot and cabernet franc grown in McLaren Vale, and a gold medal winner at various international shows. A scented and spicy bouquet with touches of leaf and mint, leads into a supple palate with rich, sweet fruits.
Drink 2006-2011 C
Drink with braised lamb
www.darenberg.com.au
Pertaringa Over the Top McLaren Vale Shiraz 2002
95 points $30
Despite the name, this barrel selection of shiraz from 50-year-old vines has only 14.5 degrees alcohol, modest by McLaren Vale standards. Deeply coloured, it has a wonderful array of luscious black fruits, dark chocolate and ripe tannins. The handling of the French and American oak is faultless.
Drink 2006-2017 C
Drink with beef provencale
www.pertaringa.com.au
Brokenwood Wade Block 2 McLaren Vale Shiraz 2002
95 points $35
An impressive addition to the Brokenwood shiraz range, coming from Iain Riggs' vinous birth place of McLaren Vale. It has intense aromas providing a strong regional counterpoint to the Hunter; here dark chocolate replaces the earthy/savoury notes of the Hunter to the black fruit core; excellent tannin and oak management.
Drink 2007-2015 C
Drink with grilled porterhouse steak
www.brokenwood.com.au
Geoff Merrill Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1998
94 points $35
First tasted 14 months ago, and has benefited greatly from the decision to only now release it. As expected, bottle-developed regional/varietal characters have continued to emerge in a cedary, earthy spectrum. The wine really scores with is mix of elegance and intensity, but, above all, with its lingering finish and aftertaste.
Drink now-2013 C
Drink with lamb casserole
www.geoffmerrillwines.com
Haan Wilhelmus 2002
95 points $42
A blend of 38 per cent cabernet sauvignon, 24 per cent merlot, 22 per cent cabernet franc, ten per cent malbec and six per cent petit verdot matured in a mix of new and one-year-old French oak. All these components are perfectly synthesised and balanced, supported by fully ripe, velvety tannins giving the palate great length.
Drink 2007-2015 C
Drink with Moroccan lamb
www.haanwines.com.au
Petaluma Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2002
96 points $42
This wine, grown on some of the warmest slopes in the Adelaide Hills, spends 20 months in French oak and is bottled without filtration. It also has five per cent viognier, which helps provide complex, lifted aromas and flavours of black cherry, blackberry and spice; great oak and utterly seductive mouthfeel.
Drink now-2012 C
Drink with smoked beef
www.petaluma.com.au
Penfolds Cellar Reserve Grenache 2002
95 points $45
High-yielding grenache produces dilute, fruit juice-like wine; low yielding vines produce plenty of flavour, but not always structure. This has both, with intense raspberry/blackberry aromas, then a rich, beautifully textured and structured palate; fine tannins and superb mouthfeel. Reminiscent of the Mark Shields Memorial Wine.
Drink now-2012 C
Drink with game pie
www.penfolds.com.au
Turkey Flat Barossa Shiraz 2002
97 points $45
Many of the vines on the Turkey Flat vineyard which go to make this wine were planted in 1847. Densely coloured, it is an intense and concentrated fruit bowl of blackberry, plum and licorice, with quite outstanding balance and oak. Commendably moderate oak and moderate alcohol, and an immoderately low price.
Drink 2007-2022 C
Drink with eye fillet of beef
www.turkeyflat.com.au
Heathcote Winery Curagee Shiraz 2002
95 points $48
This is the top-of-the range release from Heathcote Winery, and has improved significantly over the past nine months. Deep in colour, there is a touch of viognier to amplify the rich explosion of blackberry, spice, licorice and dark chocolate; a seriously delicious wine with great length.
Drink 2006-2015 C
Drink with beef spare ribs
Wirra Wirra RSW Mclaren Vale Shiraz 2002
97 points $48
This top-of-the-range shiraz spends 20 months in French and American oak. Dense but delicious black fruits and dark chocolate have a fine veneer of high quality, perfectly balanced and integrated oak. A wine with all the power of the 2002 vintage, but held in a 14.5 degree-velvet glove. Like the Turkey Flat, a bargain.
Drink 2007-2017 C
Drink with roast baby kid
www.wirrawirra.com
Kilikanoon Oracle Clare Valley Shiraz 2002
96 points $49
Owner-winemaker Kevin Mitchell has taken Kilikanoon to another level of quality and consistency with Oracle, positioned just above Covenant. Slightly denser in colour, rich blackberry and blackcurrant run through an intense and long palate, with excellent balance and structure; exemplary tannins and oak.
Drink 2007-2017 C
Drink with char-grilled rump steak
www.kilikanoon.com.au
Bannockburn Geelong Shiraz 2002
96 points $50
Using some fermentation techniques borrowed from Burgundy, Gary Farr invests his shiraz with an extra degree of excitement, paradoxically in the style of the best Northern Rhone Valley. High-toned, the wine has an exotic, piercing mix of blackberry, spice and licorice, and an ultra-long finish.
Drink 2007-2015 C
Drink with roast venison
www.bannockburnvineyards.com
Frogmore Creek Reserve Pinot Noir 2002
96 points $50
The first vintage from the organic vineyard of Tony Scherer and Jack Kidwiler, and which walked off with the trophy for Best Wine of Show at the 2004 Tasmanian Wine Show. Complex and rich, abundant and opulent plummy fruit; good oak and extract. Outstanding wine.
Drink now-2011 C
Drink with rare duck breast
Journeys End McLaren Vale Arrival Shiraz 2002
96 points $50
Replete with a label looking very much like the famed Woodley Treasure Chest series of the 1940s and '50s. this is the top end (after the Ascent) of another new virtual winery. It has another dimension of power, flooded with superb regional fruit and dark chocolate, with lingering but fine tannins.
Drink 2007-2017 C
Drink with beef bordelaise
www.journeysendvineyards.com.au
Joseph Moda Cabernet Merlot 2002
95 points $55
In deference to Italian sensibilities, Joe Grilli dropped the 'Amaraone' after 'Moda', but still uses some of the dried fruit method. Intriguingly complex aromas and flavours of tobacco, blackcurrant, cedar and spice are flanked by ripe, spicy tannins and very good oak. An overall impression of delectably ripe fruit.
Drink 2007-2017 C
Drink with roast ox kidney
www.primoestate.com.au
Punters Corner Spartacus Reserve Shiraz 2002
96 points $65
While the 2002 vintage was good in Coonawarra, it was better elsewhere in South Australia, but you wouldn't know that looking at this wine. Deeply coloured, the potent, penetrating bouquet leads into lusciously abundant mid-palate blackberry and spice, balanced by fine tannins and faintly smoky oak on the finish.
Drink 2007-2015 C
Drink with braised ox cheek
www.punterscorner.com.au
Paringa Estate Reserve Special Barrel Selection Pinot Noir 2003
97 points $80
This wine comes at the top of the awesome four-level range of pinots crafted by the masterly Lindsay McCall, who literally weaves magic with this difficult variety. Beautifully fragrant, with long and silky red fruits, it is in ultra-classic style, elegant and perfumed. Sheer class.
Drink now-2010 C
Drink with duck and truffle risotto
www.paringaestate.com.au
Moss Wood Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
96 points $85
There is no doubt the 2001 vintage in Margaret River was outstanding, as even the normally hard to please Keith Mugford is happy to admit. Spotlessly clean, this is a gorgeous, silky wine flooded with redcurrant, cassis and blackcurrant fruit in a web of fine tannins. Elegance personified, the screwcap guaranteeing a very long life.
Drink 2006-2026 S
Drink with lamb backstrap
www.mosswood.com.au
Reschke Empyrean Cabernet Sauvignon 1998
96 points $115
When first released over two years ago by a new, unknown Coonawarra winery at $100 per bottle, the silence was deafening, good though the wine was. It is now evolving superbly, with a lovely mix of rich blackcurrant and cedar/cigar box. The palate is supple, and sweet in the best sense; long future.
Drink now-2018 C
Drink with herbed rack of lamb
www.reschke.com.au
Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz 1999
96 points $320
There has been a degree of controversy about some recent prior vintages of Hill of Grace; there can surely be none about this wine. Deep in colour, it has powerful, classic thoroughbred texture and focus to its black fruits, then silky smooth tannins and finish blossoming over the past year.
Drink 2005-2025 C
Drink with teppanyaki beef
www.henschke.com.au
Penfolds Grange 1999
96 points $390
Only the third Grange to be made with 100 per cent shiraz, all the others have had a touch of cabernet sauvignon. It has also emerged from the shadow of the 1998, as its initial touch of masculine austerity has (approrpriately) softened, revealing its lovely amalgam of black fruits, warm spice and gentle vanillan oak. The tannins are not aggressive, but will help the long life ahead.
Drink 2009-2034 C
Drink with fillet mignon
www.penfolds.com.au
Australian sparkling wine
Served fully chilled on a summer day to a thirsty audience, most sparkling wine slips down the throat without a nose wrinkled in dislike, no matter how humble the wine may be. So price is a key guide to where you want to be (and drink), but I have drawn the line at excessively sugar-sweet wines.
Queen Adelaide Brut NV
85 points $6.80
Southcorp has no less than six sparkling wines (all tank-fermented, of course) in the $5-6 range, and this appealed as the best cheap all-rounder, with excellent mousse (bubbles), plenty of grapey flavour, and controlled sweetness. Adding a dash of orange juice would not be a capital offence.
www.southcorp.com.au/wines/specialist.htm
Orlando Trilogy Cuvee But NV
88 points $15
Near the bottom of the price scale for bottle-fermented (or traditional method) sparkling wine, and made from the classic mix of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier. Crisp and elegant, with a mix of apple and nectarine, it has good length and aftertaste. No frills, but honest and to the point.
www.orlandowyndhamgroup.com/brands_wines.asp
Taltarni Brut 2002
90 points $21.50
A blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, like its vividly coloured sister Brut Tache (or rose), a blend of material from the Pyrenees, Yarra Valley and Tasmania (ex Clover Hill). The latter regions give the wine its freshness and vivacity expressed in the citrus and pear fruit, and its clean, lingering, brisk, finish.
www.taltarni.com.au
Hardys Sir James Vintage 2001
93 points $25
Sourced from Tasmania (the favourite stomping ground of Hardys sparkling wine maestro Ed Carr) and Macedon. Super-fine and elegant, it brings together pear, apple and brioche aromas and flavours; impeccably balanced, it has the long, clean finish and aftertaste which is the hallmark of all fine sparkling wines.
www.hardys.com.au
Seppelt Salinger 2001
93 points $25
Once upon a time Salinger was the most expensive wine on the Australian market, and a style pace-setter. It is well on the way back, it seems, doubtless helped by its juicy price. Complex bready/yeasty autolysis characters help impart very good mouthfeel, the finish tightened and lengthened by good acidity.
www.seppelt.com.au
Domain Chandon Z*D 2000
94 points $34
Broke new ground in two respects: first, the decision to use a stainless steel crown seal as the closure, and secondly, to use no sugar in the replacement wine following disgorgement. Opens with gently complex aromas, with good bready autolysis, then springs to life in the mouth, the fresh and lively citrus-tinged fruit intensified by the absence of dosage.
www.yarra-valley.net.au/domaine_chandon/
Kreglinger Estate Vintage Brut 1998
95 points $40
Obviously enough, made at Pipers Brook by Andrew Pirie prior to Kreglinger's acquisition of Pipers Brook, and has equally obviously spent a long time on lees prior to disgorgement. It is crammed with all the right flavours, creamy/yeasty brioche around a stone fruit and mineral core, then powers through to a long finish.
www.kreglinger.com.au
Seppelt Show Sparkling Shiraz 1994
96 points $44
By a country mile, the best sparkling red wine. It spends a minimum of six years on lees prior to disgorgement, and this release comes either with a traditional cork or a stainless steel crown cap. It exudes intense spice, licorice and blackberry fruit, and seems drier and even better balanced than prior vintages. If you can find it, buy it.
www.seppelt.com.au
In my recently released 2005 Australian Wine Companion there were 377 new winery listings. The 2004 Companion had 240 new entries, the year before 180. It is a parabolic curve, and there is every indication it will continue through to next year at least. If an additional 400 wineries were to make their maiden appearance, it would mean 1200 have come into existence in the last four years, more than the total between 1840 and 2000.
Small wonder, then, that 1258 wines were submitted this year, breaking the previous record by over 200. this, I might say, is despite the fact that I must necessarily restrict the invitations to enter the Top 100 to around 200 of the best-performed producers, and even then beg them to only submit a limited number of wines which they consider to be their very best.
If I were not to so restrict the entries, it is certain 3000-plus wines would arrive on my doorstep, creating a logistical nightmare, and the necessity of tasting 150 wines a day for 20 consecutive days in a month which already has five wine show commitments - an impossible situation.
Enough of the mechanical stuff. The schedule may have been demanding, but this was the most memorable of all Top 100 tastings. The high point was the 2002 vintage, which right across south east Australia produced superb red wines in seemingly endless volumes. It was largely due to this vintage (with support from 2003) that I was able to turn the price clock back, and reinstate the $20 and under red wine section. (In recent years I had to increase it to $25).
The outcome is a really strong group of reds $20 and under ($19.99 is $20 so far as I am concerned). There are also some great bargains in the $20-30 segment of the above $20 group, and indeed most of the way up the price scale to the rarefied heights of Hill of Grace and Grange.
All of this is reflected in the number of very high scoring red wines, with 95 and 96 points far more frequently given than in prior years. You have to go back to the 1996 and '98 vintages to find roughly similar outcomes.
The message with the white wines is decidedly less cheerful when it comes to the 2004 vintage. This was a year in which big berries and big bunches resulted in high yields; the growing conditions were perfect, and there was a bounce-back after the drought-reduced 2003 vintage. Right across Australia the message has been much the same: well-made whites with nice structure and good length, but lacking positive varietal fruit flavours. I hope that those I have chosen from 2004 are the exceptions to prove the rule.
The result has been a higher percentage than usual of older vintage whites chosen (1987 to 2003), in most instances sustained by the long march of the screwcap, used on 65 per cent of the selected white wines. It is of course true that the best chardonnays from 2004 are yet to be bottled and come onto the market, and may lead to some re-assessment. The most telling area is sauvignon blanc, one of the most rapidly growing sectors, but without a single representative in the above $20 category (although there are two semillon sauvignon blanc blends, one from 2004, the other from 2002).
For every wine selected, there were another three or four of similar price and quality (except Hill of Grace and Grange). Often the choice was driven by a deliberate desire to provide a balance between big companies and small, between cool and warmer climate styles, and between varieties. No small-to-medium winery has more than two selected wines (although some could easily have three or four on pure quality terms), but some of the big five have significantly more, taking 20 of the 88 available Australian spots.
It is a far from perfect system done on the back of the proverbial envelope, and on looking back it seems Orlando Wyndham and Beringer Blass are under-represented once all its brands are taken into account. Particularly in the case of Orlando and Beringer Blass nothing should be read into the absence of wines, although Beringer opted not to submit its best Wolf Blass wines (Platinum or Black Label).
At the other end of the spectrum come the steadily increasing number of virtual wineries, which I used to call 'warehouse' wineries. Here grapes are purchased from independent growers, and made in a shared winery owned by a third party or group. The only capital investment is in the oak barrels, but there is a considerable amount of experience among the creators. Journeys End and Zonte's Footstep are prime examples.
So I present this year's Top 100 with utmost confidence, and suggest it shows an industry well-equipped to deal with the ever-increasing challenges in its all-important export markets.
Finally, I have added website addresses/phone numbers to help track down the hard-to-find wines; it is a condition of entry that the wines be available for sale in December, but some will be in limited supply.
Key to closure abbreviation - C Cork, S Screwcap, SY Synthetic, TT Twin-Top Cork
Whites $20 and Under
A neatly balanced mix of chardonnays and semillons (four each); sauvignon blancs/sauvignon blanc blends and semillons (three each); and pinot gris, viognier and colombard (one each). Most come with screwcaps, and while some are at their best right now, others will repay cellaring. Cheap does not mean nasty.
Lindemans Bin 95 Sauvignon Blanc 2004
87 points $9
It may seem paradoxical that cheaper sauvignon blanc should have fared (relatively speaking) better than upmarket examples in 2004, but that appears to be the case. The wine has obvious tropical varietal fruit on both bouquet and palate; a slightly thick finish does not unduly detract from the overall impact.
Drink now SY
Drink with deep-fried calamari
www.lindemans.com.au
Zilzie Buloke Reserve Chardonnay 2004
89 points $10
The Forbes family has been farming Zilzie Estate at Karadoc since 1911, diversifying into grapes with 250 hectares, initially contract planted for Southcorp, since moving into large-scale winemaking with much success. Bright yellow-green, the lively, fresh melon and nectarine fruit palate has a particularly good, crisp finish.
Drink now S
Drink with smoked salmon
www.zilziewines.com
Nepenthe Vineyards Tryst Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2004
92 points $13
The back label shyly confesses that there is a small amount of pinot gris also present in the blend; perhaps the tryst led to a marriage of convenience. Whatever, the result is a rich array of tropical fruits and abundant flavour; the long finish is neither coarse nor phenolic.
Drink now-2007 S
Drink with scampi
www.nepenthe.com.au
Tyrrell's Old Winery Semillon 2004
89 points $13
Tyrrell's makes a far greater range of semillons than any other producer in the Hunter Valley (or elsewhere). Its experience and extensive grape sources shine through here, with stylish lemon and herb flavours, a brisk, light-bodied palate, and lively, crunchy acidity to lengthen the finish and aftertaste.
Drink now-2012 S
Drink with steamed mussels
www.tyrrells.com.au
Primo Estate La Biondina 2004
89 points $14.50
While predominantly colombard (as the wine used to be called), La Biondina now incorporates lesser amounts of riesling and sauvignon blanc. As ever, it is fresh, crisp and lively, with slippery/squeaky mouthfeel, and a clean, dry finish and aftertaste. The ultimate summer and seafood white.
Drink now S
Drink with crab salad
www.primoestate.com.au
Ferngrove Vineyards Frankland River Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2004
93 points $15
Ferngrove is going from strength to strength, most recently measured by its outstanding success across the board at the recent Qantas Wine Show of Western Australia. A clean and aromatic tropical passionfruit bouquet leads into a fresh, crisp palate with herb and grass joining the band of flavours.
Drink now-2007 S
Drink with lemon-marinated fish
www.ferngrove.com.au
Paringa Estate Peninsula Chardonnay 2003
91 points $15
How does an estate-grown wine (from Paringa's Callanans Road Vineyard), 100 per cent barrel-fermented in French oak, 20 per cent new, come at this price? Forget the gift horse; the elegant, moderately intense grapefruit and melon palate is perfectly balanced, the fruit having eaten the oak. Fantastic value from a top producer.
Drink now-2008 S
Drink with smoked trout
www.paringaestate.com.au
De Bortoli Gulf Station Chardonnay 2003
91 points $17
Gulf Station is the second tier of 100 per cent Yarra Valley-sourced wines for
De Bortoli. It is a wine which has developed very well over the past nine months; nectarine, melon and citrus fruit and subtle barrel ferment inputs have grown in complexity, the palate finely structured and very, very long.
Drink now-2008 S
Drink with tempura
www.debortoli.com.au
Chalkers Crossing Tumbarumba Chardonnay 2002
94 points $18
This is absolutely ridiculous; how can a wine of this quality and price still be available notwithstanding previous selection in the Top 100? It is showing no sign of tiring, as intense and long as ever. Citrus and nectarine fruit are the drivers, French oak in the back seat.
Drink now-2010 TT
Drink with Gravlax
www.chalkerscrossing.com.au
McWilliam's Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Semillon 2000
93 points $18
Has now largely emerged from its transition phase from youth to the first years of maturity, improving markedly as it has done so. Ripe lemon/citrus fruit aroma and flavour attests to the dry vintage, the smooth and supple palate braced by the lively acidity essential to the style.
Drink now-2008 C
Drink with smoked eel
www.mcwilliams.com.au
McWilliam's Regional Collection Clare Valley Riesling 2004
95 points $18.50
In prior vintages it has been the Eden Valley version which has gained more accolades, but this year I, at least, prefer the Clare Valley wine. It has crystal clear varietal character, offering lingering lime juice and grapefruit flavours with a minerally acid cross-cut, giving structure and length.
Drink now-2015 S
Drink with antipasto
www.mcwilliams.com.au
Tahbilk Viognier 2004
90 points $19
The number of producers of viognier grows day by day: as at 2003, 540 hectares produced just under 3900 tonnes, or roughly 270,000 cases. As this wine shows, Yalumba doesn't have it all to itself; highly aromatic, it is laden with peach pastille mid-palate fruit, the finish clear and uncluttered.
Drink now-2006 S
Drink with quiche lorraine
www.tahbilk.com.au
Knappstein Hand Picked Riesling 2004
94 points $20
The grapes for this wine are predominantly estate-grown, the remainder from selected growers; the outcome is a blend of Clare and Watervale fruit. It has a fragrant and floral bouquet of apple, lime and passionfruit, and a delicate but intense palate of pure riesling fruit.
Drink now-2012 S
Drink with grilled whiting
www.knappsteinwines.com.au
Leasingham Bin 7 Riesling 2004
95 points $20
The cool 2004 vintage coincided with larger than usual berries, bunches and hence yields, which bunch-thinning only partially overcame for those who bit the bullet. This has more potent and powerful fruit than most, with intense mineral and citrus aromas and flavours, the palate deep and long.
Drink now-2014 S
Drink with asparagus and prosciutto
www.leasingham-wines.com.au
O'Leary Walker Watervale Riesling 2004
94 points $20
With two O'Leary Walker Rieslings in the frame (the other from the Polish Hill River subregion) my choice fell on the Watervale wine. Pale straw-green, it has a lively, fragrant, spice and citrus bouquet, and a fresh palate with tingling fruit and crunchy acidity; overall delicacy and finesse.
Drink now 2010 S
Drink with gazpacho
www.olearywalkerwines.com
Seppelt Coborra Drumborg Vineyard Pinot Gris 2004
94 points $20
The long-established Drumborg Vineyard in Victoria's Henty region has been a corporate labour of love for Seppelt, for the very cool region can provide real challenges. On the other hand, this spicy, flinty, floral wine has exceptional length and intensity, and could only come from such a climate. Simply outstanding.
Drink now-2007 S
Drink with oysters
www.seppelt.com.au
Tyrrell's Reserve Stevens Semillon 2000
94 points $20
It is no surprise to find that this wine has won trophies and gold medals at the toughest shows for semillons, the Hunter Valley and Canberra National. Elegant but intense lemon/acacia aromas lead into a similarly fine, intense and long palate, still with a decade, cork permitting.
Drink now-2015 C
Drink with salmon terrine
www.tyrrells.com.au
Whites Over $20
An white winemaking technology is second to none, whether it be in the aromatic, tank-fermented rieslings, semillons and other unwooded white wines, or with barrel-fermented and matured chardonnays. While some of the selected wines already have bottle age, all will repay further cellaring, with particular confidence for the screwcap-finished wines.
Wilson Vineyard Polish Hill River Riesling 2004
95 points $22
Another switch from my normal preference (slight though it may be) for the Wilson DJW wines. Its bouquet has bell-clear notes of spice, lime and mineral; the palate is very long, as is the lingering aftertaste. As with all these rieslings, bottle age will invest the wine with great complexity and texture.
Drink now-2014 S
Drink with caesar salad
www.wilsonvineyard.com.au
Houghton Frankland River Riesling 2001
94 points $24
Anyone who ignores the quality of riesling which comes from the Frankland River subregion of Western Australia's Great Southern does themselves a disservice. A fascinating array of floral honeysuckle and passionfruit aromas have developed with bottle age, and which flow through to the utterly expressive and distinctive palate.
Drink now-2011 S
Drink with stir-fried prawns
www.houghton-wines.com.au
Seppelt Drumborg Riesling 2004
96 points $24
Whatever uncertainties there may have been about the intensity of 2004 white wines in South Australia, they do not apply to this wine. Intense, fragrant and flowery aromas announce a brilliantly poised and focussed wine and its long citrus and mineral flavours. Shines like a diamond. Exceptional value.
Drink now-2019 S
Drink with sashimi
www.seppelt.com.au
Pewsey Vale The Contours Museum Release Riesling 1999
96 points $25
Yalumba was the commercial pioneer of screwcaps more than a decade before the public was prepared to accept them; its experience with the closure shows in this beautifully developed wine. A super-intense, fragrant and complex bouquet is matched by the great grapefruit, lime and herb palate and penetrating finish.
Drink with blue swimmer crab
Drink now-2009 S
www.pewseyvale.com
Keith Tulloch Semillon 2004
95 points $26
The Hunter Valley Wine Show is the ultimate testing ground for semillon. Repeated success here for the best known producers (Tyrrell's, McWilliam's) is only to be expected, but the production minnow Keith Tulloch achieves it too. Sophisticated crafting results in a silken web of complexity and an alluring future.
Drink 2009-2019 S
Drink with sauteed scallops
www.keithtullochwine.com.au
Montalto Chardonnay 2003
95 points $27
The Mornington Peninsula is coming into is own as the vineyards mature and (perhaps) as the climate warms. Experience, too, is playing a positive role. This wine has a fragrant, delicate yet intense array of white peach and grapefruit aromas and flavours marry with perfect, almost sweet, acidity. Quite delicious.
Drink now-2008 C
Drink with salmon ravioli
www.montalto.com.au
Cullen Margaret River Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2003
96 points $29
A blend of 54 per cent semillon and 46 per cent sauvignon blanc, 34 per cent fermented in new French oak, 23 per cent with wild yeast, almost inevitably produces a multi-dimensional and complex palate; the skill is the retention of citrus and passionfruit in a superbly fresh and balanced palate.
Drink now-2008 S
Drink with sugar-cured tuna
www.cullenwines.com.au
Brokenwood ILR Reserve Semillon 2000
96 points $35
ILR are the initials of Iain Riggs, chief winemaker and chief executive of Brokenwood for over 20 years. Made specifically for late release, it is brilliant green-yellow, spotlessly clean and still youthful, with lemon and lanolin aromas, and touches of toast and honey lurking in the shadows.
Drink now-2012 C
Drink with bouillabaisse
www.brokenwood.com.au
Howard Park Chardonnay 2003
96 points $35
Howard Park winemaker Michael Kerrigan is making a seemingly endless stream of top class wines right across the varietal spectrum. A seamless and super-fine palate reflects precision engineering of nectarine fruit and barrel-fermented French oak; the epitome of elegance, and at the start of its life.
Drink now-2010 S
Drink with slow-roasted Tasmanian salmon
www.howardparkwines.com.au
Shaw & Smith M3 Vineyard Chardonnay 2003
95 points $35
Sauvignon blanc, Martin Shaw and Michael Hill Smith agree, makes itself once the vineyard delivers. Here the roles are in part reversed; the complex, intense and tight aromas and flavours of stone fruit, melon and fig interlaced with cashew and spicy oak in the background; a fine example of winemaking.
Drink now-2009 C
Drink with seafood risotto
www.shawandsmith.com
Voyager Estate Margaret River Chardonnay 2003
96 points $38
Situated in the viticultural equivalent of harbourside real estate, adjacent to Leeuwin Estate, in Australia's best chardonnay region. It is an elegantly constructed and perfectly balanced wine; the fruit has soaked up all the new French oak in which the wine was fermented, driving through on the long, lingering finish.
Drink now-2013 S
Drink with seafood risotto
www.voyagerestate.com.au
Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2004
96 points $39
Often slower to open up than its Watervale counterpart, this year the roles seem to be reversed, but without compromising the cellaring potential of this wine. Potent lime and apple blossom aromas flow through into the palate, where flecks of herb and slate add to the complexity of the long finish.
Drink now-2014 S
Drink with vegetarian terrine
www.grosset.com.au
Lake's Folly Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2002
96 points $45
Lake's Folly has never entered wine shows, but it would be fascinating to see a toe-to-toe contest with Tyrrell's Vat 47. Bright green-yellow, this proclaims its class from start to finish, with immaculately handled barrel ferment oak supporting white peach fruit and fine acidity.
Drink now-2009 C
Drink with Chinese baked fish
www.lakesfolly.com.au
Tyrrell's Vat 1 Hunter Semillon 1997
96 points $45
The three selected semillons (from 2004, '00 and 1999) graphically demonstrate the majestic way the variety develops in bottle, but do not for one moment think this wine is at the end of the road. Brilliant green-yellow; herb, lanolin, toast and lemon aromas precede a brilliantly fresh and lingering palate (cork permitting).
Drink now-2010+ C
Drink with New Zealand whitebait
www.tyrrells.com.au
Chardonnay by Farr 2003
96 points $50
This is the patriarch Gary Farr's wine (as opposed to Bannockburn and son Nicholas' Farr Rising) but there is a strong family resemblance: full frontal and uncompromising, with more than a passing nod to Burgundy. Fabulously rich, tapestried stone fruit and nutty/creamy texture and flavour make a wine of great distinction.
Drink now-2012 C
Drink with sweetbreads
Cullen Margaret River Chardonnay 2002
96 points $55
The strong performance of the Margaret River in the Top 100 simply reflects the magic union between variety and region, the skill of Vanya Cullen making it even stronger. Here complexity reaches the highest level, malolactic and barrel ferment inputs coalescing with the fruit on the marvellously textured palate.
Drink now-2014 S
Drink with grilled spatchcock
www.cullenwines.com.au
Leeuwin Estate Art Series Margaret River Chardonnay 2001
97 points $76
Australia's best Chardonnay and an outstanding vintage in Margaret River caused me to quickly put my money where my pen is. This is close to perfection, its classic restraint simply pointing to the long term future, as layers of complexity will build on the perfectly balanced silky stone fruit and high quality oak.
Drink now-2016 C
Drink with avocado and prawn salad
www.leeuwinestate.com.au
Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay 2001
96 points $100
Yattarna was a long time in gestation, and the first offspring haven't all matured as Penfolds might have wished. By all rights, this should do so, building on its super-refined and elegant creamy cashew and melon fruit, the oak inthe background where it should be. A wine of headline purity.
Drink now-2011 C
Drink with milk-fed veal
www.penfolds.com.au
Reds $20 and Under
Not only was I able to choose 19 red wines for $20 and less, but most are considerably under $20 without pinching the value for money ratio. As might be expected, shiraz dominates the group with seven varietals and two blends, but cabernet sauvignon and blends accounted for another six, leaving room for a rose, a pinot noir, a merlot and a sangiovese.
Hardys Voyage Cabernet Sauvignon Petit Verdot Merlot 2003
87 points $6
Offers the same jaw-dropping quality-for-price as its sister wine, Voyage White. A blend of cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot and merlot (remarkable in itself at this price point) it has a smooth and soft mix of raspberry and plum fruits and soft tannins, the seeming absence of oak irrelevant.
Drink now SY
Drink with ravioli
www.hardys.com.au
Long Flat Wine Co Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2003
92 points $10
I thought the previous first-up vintage of this wine was a never-to-be-repeated flash in the pan courtesy of the 2002 vintage. Not so; this equally astonishing bargain has abundant varietal plum and spice aromas and flavours, offset by a pleasingly savoury finish sustaining the length and aftertaste.
Drink now-2006 S
Drink with braised rabbit
www.cheviotbridge.com.au
Kingston Estate Shiraz 2003
88 points $11
Sourced from unspecified premium regions, but no doubt with a substantial Riverland component, something which no longer needs apologies, as grape quality continues to improve thanks to competition. There is unexpected weight and structure to the palate, with plenty of ripe, black fruit flavours, even if it does shorten fractionally.
Drink now-2008 C
Drink with gourmet sausages
www.kingstonestatewines.com
Houghton Cabernet Shiraz Merlot 2003
90 points $11
What is good for the (Moondah Brook) gander is good for the (Houghton) goose, both part of the Hardys group and sharing the same viticultural resources. Abundant and expansive red and black fruits provide delicious mouthfeel and flavour; fantastic value for a lovely drink-now wine.
Drink now-2007 C
Drink with beef spare ribs
www.houghton-wines.com.au
De Bortoli Windy Peak King Valley Sangiovese 2003
89 points $12
A number of tastings over this year have consistently appealed for this wine from a variety which isn't easy to grow and make well. Above average colour presages a palate with supple red and black cherry fruit, the tannins fine and gently spicy. An enticing fruit-foremost style.
Drink now-2007 C
Drink with wild mushroom risotto
www.debortoli.com.au
Water Wheel Memsie Shiraz Cabernet Malbec 2003
90 points $12
Peter Cumming has quietly and unostentatiously gone about making his ever-reliably very good value Water Wheel wines for 15 years. This wine has special appeal, with its powerful but restrained array of dark, black fruits; overall firm structure and tannins around a core of sweetness.
Drink 2006-2011 C
Drink with stir-fried beef
www.waterwheelwine.com
Carbunup Crest Margaret River Merlot 2003
89 points $12.50
Once again, Carbunup Crest comes up with red wines offering excellent value, particularly in the context of the Margaret River. Sophisticated winemaking produces a full-flavoured palate with red and black fruits, a twist of olive, fine tannins and a hint of sweetness. Ready to go right now.
Drink now-2007 S
Drink with lamb kidneys
Hardys Oomoo McLaren Vale Shiraz 2003
92 points $13
Uses a name and label design cleverly resurrected from Hardys' 19th century archives, and draws its grapes from its original home region. Laden with plum and blackberry fruit and a wrapping of regional chocolate, it has excellent balance, depth and structure. Almost embarrassingly good value.
Drink now-2008 C
Drink with beef casserole
www.hardys.com.au
Moondah Brook Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
91 points $13
Hardys has unparalleled vineyard sources throughout Western Australia, the 'trickle-down' effect leading to the inclusion of premium material in this wine. Blackcurrant and cassis fruit are matched by fine tannins and subtle oak; medium-bodied, it has very good texture and structure. Outstanding value.
Drink now-2008 C
Drink with butterfly leg of lamb
www.brlhardy.com.au/brands/moondah.html
Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet 2002
90 points $14
Vertical tastings of Koonunga Hill at various times over the past 15-20 years underline the longevity and quality of the wine from top vintages such as 1976, '86, '90, '96, '98 and now 2002. It has excellent blackberry and blackcurrant fruit aromas and flavours, velvety tannins and subtle oak.
Drink now-2012 C
Drink with beef shashlik
www.penfolds.com.au
Judds Warby Range Estate Shiraz 2003
91 points $15
Ralph and Margaret Judd planted their small vineyard as growers for Southcorp, but have since ventured into making part of the crop under their own label. Voluminous blackberry, plum and spice fruit is supported by soft, ripe tannins and well integrated vanilla oak.
Drink now-2008 C
Drink with marinated beef
www.warbyrange-estate.com.au
Zonte's Footstep Langhorne Creek Cabernet Malbec 2003
92 points $15
A joint venture between John Pargeter (vigneron), Ben Riggs (winemaker and Zar Brooks (flamboyant marketer and inventor of the voluminous back label). Vividly coloured, the wine has a soft, lusciously sweet array of smooth and supple red and black fruits. Delicious drink now (or later, thanks to the screwcap) style.
Drink now-2007 S
Drink with lasagne
www.zontesfootstep.com.au
Charles Cimicky Trumps Barossa Valley Shiraz 2003
93 points $16
A newcomer to the Top 100, but a Barossa stalwart of long standing who has never sought the eastern states limelight, selling most locally. Densely coloured, the wine has lush blackberry, plum, prune and spice aromas and flavours, with echoes of bitter chocolate on the finish, and well-handled oak.
Drink now-2013 C
Drink with osso bucco
Pertaringa Undercover Shiraz 2002
93 points $18
Another wine from this wonderful vintage to come along in leaps and bounds over the past nine months, and with more to go. It is in archetypal McLaren Vale style, offering a melange of black fruits and dark chocolate; silky tannins help the lively mouthfeel and long finish.
Drink 2005-2015 S
Drink with kangaroo fillet
www.pertaringa.com.au
Balnaves of Coonawarra The Blend 2001
94 points $19
A classic Bordeaux mix of 35 per cent cabernet franc, 32 per cent each cabernet sauvignon and merlot and 11 per cent petit verdot. It has developed surely over the past 12 months, with great texture and mouthfeel; cedar, cigar box, spice and blackcurrant intermingle with ultra-fine tannins.
Drink 2006-2015 C
Drink with roast saltbush lamb
www.balnaves.com.au
Jim Barry Lodge Hill Shiraz 2002
93 points $20
Selected for the Top 100 little more than a week prior to the death of Clare Valley patriarch Jim Barry. A heroic style for extended cellaring, it is opaquely coloured, with powerful blackberry, black olive and earth aromas, then layer upon layer of black fruit flavours and tannins.
Drink 2007-2017 C
Drink with jugged hare
Richard Hamilton Hut Block Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
94 points $20
Ex Southcorp winemaker Paul Gordon is revelling in the quality of the vineyards owned by Dr Richard Hamilton. This is a quite lovely wine, with sweet cassis and blackcurrant flavours in an elegant frame; fine but quite intense tannins and oak provide perfectly balanced support.
Drink now-2015 C
Drink with rack of lamb
Cheviot Bridge Yea Valley Shiraz 2002
93 points $20
From the longer-established quality arm of the Long Flat Wine Co comes a wine which has improved significantly over the past 12 months. Bright deep purple-red, it has an intense, rich but not jammy array of red and black fruits and spices, supported by lots of ripe tannins and oak.
Drink now-2012 S
Drink with Irish stew
www.cheviotbridge.com.au
Charles Melton Rose of Virginia 2004
94 points $20
Always one of Australia's best roses, along with Turkey Flat, Geoff Merrill and Houghton. Vivid red-purple, it is - as ever - bursting with strawberry and raspberry aroma and flavour, yet retaining delicacy thanks to its refreshingly dry finish. The perfect summer lunch wine.
Drink now-2005 S
Drink with anything Chinese
www.charlesmeltonwines.com.au
Reds Over $20
This is the strongest group of red wines for many years, offering every bit as much value for money as the $20 and under group. It ranges from mainstream to new styles and varieties, quality being the common denominator . as with all the wines in the Top 100, the website should help you track down the harder to find wines.
Alkoomi Frankland River Cabernet Sauvignon 2002
94 points $22
Estate-grown by Merv and Judy Lange in the Frankland River subregion of Western Australia's Great Southern; likewise, estate-made. The strong colour correctly suggests a wine with a potent mix of blackcurrant and blackberry, persistent but ripe tannins giving it great texture and structure. Severely under-priced.
Drink 2007-2017 C
Drink with rosemary-studded leg of lamb
www.alkoomiwines.com.au
Warrabilla Reserve Durif 2003
94 points $22
Rutherglen has been growing durif for a century, almost as long as the variety (propagated by a Dr Durif in France) has existed. The colour is so dense and inky it stains the glass as it is swirled; the palate is massively concentrated, indeed almost viscous, but balanced by tannins, and not over-extracted.
Drink 2008-2018 C
Drink with marinated venison
www.warrabillawines.com.au
Yering Station Yarra Valley Shiraz Viognier 2002
95 points $23
Not to be confused with the multi-trophy winning reserve version, however much it has a family similarity. The very cool vintage required the skilled viticulture and winemaking evident in this fragrant, ultra-complex mix of spice, licorice and black fruits, with fine, silky tannins and equally fine French oak. Fantastic value.
Drink 2006-2012 C
Drink with braised ox tail
www.yering.com
Chalkers Crossing Hilltops Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
94 points $25
French-born and trained Celine Rousseau is now an Australian citizen, and her winemaking style is the best of both worlds. Dark red-purple, it has intense varietal blackcurrant and cassis with a cool climate twist of herb and olive, which add to rather than detract from this Bordeaux style bargain.
Drink 2007-2013 C
Drink with lamb loin
www.chalkerscrossing.com.au
Clyde Park Reserve Pinot Noir 2002
95 points $29
Clyde Park has a mature estate vineyard; fully revived after a difficult period and under new ownership, it is producing excellent wine across the board. The wine is stacked with rich, ripe, plummy fruit moving through to a stylishly savoury and lingering finish. Top gold medal 2004 Geelong Wine Show.
Drink now-2009 C
Drink with roast squab
d'Arenberg The Galvo Garage 2002
95 points $30
An 'in-joke' name for a Bordeaux style blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, petit verdot and cabernet franc grown in McLaren Vale, and a gold medal winner at various international shows. A scented and spicy bouquet with touches of leaf and mint, leads into a supple palate with rich, sweet fruits.
Drink 2006-2011 C
Drink with braised lamb
www.darenberg.com.au
Pertaringa Over the Top McLaren Vale Shiraz 2002
95 points $30
Despite the name, this barrel selection of shiraz from 50-year-old vines has only 14.5 degrees alcohol, modest by McLaren Vale standards. Deeply coloured, it has a wonderful array of luscious black fruits, dark chocolate and ripe tannins. The handling of the French and American oak is faultless.
Drink 2006-2017 C
Drink with beef provencale
www.pertaringa.com.au
Brokenwood Wade Block 2 McLaren Vale Shiraz 2002
95 points $35
An impressive addition to the Brokenwood shiraz range, coming from Iain Riggs' vinous birth place of McLaren Vale. It has intense aromas providing a strong regional counterpoint to the Hunter; here dark chocolate replaces the earthy/savoury notes of the Hunter to the black fruit core; excellent tannin and oak management.
Drink 2007-2015 C
Drink with grilled porterhouse steak
www.brokenwood.com.au
Geoff Merrill Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1998
94 points $35
First tasted 14 months ago, and has benefited greatly from the decision to only now release it. As expected, bottle-developed regional/varietal characters have continued to emerge in a cedary, earthy spectrum. The wine really scores with is mix of elegance and intensity, but, above all, with its lingering finish and aftertaste.
Drink now-2013 C
Drink with lamb casserole
www.geoffmerrillwines.com
Haan Wilhelmus 2002
95 points $42
A blend of 38 per cent cabernet sauvignon, 24 per cent merlot, 22 per cent cabernet franc, ten per cent malbec and six per cent petit verdot matured in a mix of new and one-year-old French oak. All these components are perfectly synthesised and balanced, supported by fully ripe, velvety tannins giving the palate great length.
Drink 2007-2015 C
Drink with Moroccan lamb
www.haanwines.com.au
Petaluma Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2002
96 points $42
This wine, grown on some of the warmest slopes in the Adelaide Hills, spends 20 months in French oak and is bottled without filtration. It also has five per cent viognier, which helps provide complex, lifted aromas and flavours of black cherry, blackberry and spice; great oak and utterly seductive mouthfeel.
Drink now-2012 C
Drink with smoked beef
www.petaluma.com.au
Penfolds Cellar Reserve Grenache 2002
95 points $45
High-yielding grenache produces dilute, fruit juice-like wine; low yielding vines produce plenty of flavour, but not always structure. This has both, with intense raspberry/blackberry aromas, then a rich, beautifully textured and structured palate; fine tannins and superb mouthfeel. Reminiscent of the Mark Shields Memorial Wine.
Drink now-2012 C
Drink with game pie
www.penfolds.com.au
Turkey Flat Barossa Shiraz 2002
97 points $45
Many of the vines on the Turkey Flat vineyard which go to make this wine were planted in 1847. Densely coloured, it is an intense and concentrated fruit bowl of blackberry, plum and licorice, with quite outstanding balance and oak. Commendably moderate oak and moderate alcohol, and an immoderately low price.
Drink 2007-2022 C
Drink with eye fillet of beef
www.turkeyflat.com.au
Heathcote Winery Curagee Shiraz 2002
95 points $48
This is the top-of-the range release from Heathcote Winery, and has improved significantly over the past nine months. Deep in colour, there is a touch of viognier to amplify the rich explosion of blackberry, spice, licorice and dark chocolate; a seriously delicious wine with great length.
Drink 2006-2015 C
Drink with beef spare ribs
Wirra Wirra RSW Mclaren Vale Shiraz 2002
97 points $48
This top-of-the-range shiraz spends 20 months in French and American oak. Dense but delicious black fruits and dark chocolate have a fine veneer of high quality, perfectly balanced and integrated oak. A wine with all the power of the 2002 vintage, but held in a 14.5 degree-velvet glove. Like the Turkey Flat, a bargain.
Drink 2007-2017 C
Drink with roast baby kid
www.wirrawirra.com
Kilikanoon Oracle Clare Valley Shiraz 2002
96 points $49
Owner-winemaker Kevin Mitchell has taken Kilikanoon to another level of quality and consistency with Oracle, positioned just above Covenant. Slightly denser in colour, rich blackberry and blackcurrant run through an intense and long palate, with excellent balance and structure; exemplary tannins and oak.
Drink 2007-2017 C
Drink with char-grilled rump steak
www.kilikanoon.com.au
Bannockburn Geelong Shiraz 2002
96 points $50
Using some fermentation techniques borrowed from Burgundy, Gary Farr invests his shiraz with an extra degree of excitement, paradoxically in the style of the best Northern Rhone Valley. High-toned, the wine has an exotic, piercing mix of blackberry, spice and licorice, and an ultra-long finish.
Drink 2007-2015 C
Drink with roast venison
www.bannockburnvineyards.com
Frogmore Creek Reserve Pinot Noir 2002
96 points $50
The first vintage from the organic vineyard of Tony Scherer and Jack Kidwiler, and which walked off with the trophy for Best Wine of Show at the 2004 Tasmanian Wine Show. Complex and rich, abundant and opulent plummy fruit; good oak and extract. Outstanding wine.
Drink now-2011 C
Drink with rare duck breast
Journeys End McLaren Vale Arrival Shiraz 2002
96 points $50
Replete with a label looking very much like the famed Woodley Treasure Chest series of the 1940s and '50s. this is the top end (after the Ascent) of another new virtual winery. It has another dimension of power, flooded with superb regional fruit and dark chocolate, with lingering but fine tannins.
Drink 2007-2017 C
Drink with beef bordelaise
www.journeysendvineyards.com.au
Joseph Moda Cabernet Merlot 2002
95 points $55
In deference to Italian sensibilities, Joe Grilli dropped the 'Amaraone' after 'Moda', but still uses some of the dried fruit method. Intriguingly complex aromas and flavours of tobacco, blackcurrant, cedar and spice are flanked by ripe, spicy tannins and very good oak. An overall impression of delectably ripe fruit.
Drink 2007-2017 C
Drink with roast ox kidney
www.primoestate.com.au
Punters Corner Spartacus Reserve Shiraz 2002
96 points $65
While the 2002 vintage was good in Coonawarra, it was better elsewhere in South Australia, but you wouldn't know that looking at this wine. Deeply coloured, the potent, penetrating bouquet leads into lusciously abundant mid-palate blackberry and spice, balanced by fine tannins and faintly smoky oak on the finish.
Drink 2007-2015 C
Drink with braised ox cheek
www.punterscorner.com.au
Paringa Estate Reserve Special Barrel Selection Pinot Noir 2003
97 points $80
This wine comes at the top of the awesome four-level range of pinots crafted by the masterly Lindsay McCall, who literally weaves magic with this difficult variety. Beautifully fragrant, with long and silky red fruits, it is in ultra-classic style, elegant and perfumed. Sheer class.
Drink now-2010 C
Drink with duck and truffle risotto
www.paringaestate.com.au
Moss Wood Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon 2001
96 points $85
There is no doubt the 2001 vintage in Margaret River was outstanding, as even the normally hard to please Keith Mugford is happy to admit. Spotlessly clean, this is a gorgeous, silky wine flooded with redcurrant, cassis and blackcurrant fruit in a web of fine tannins. Elegance personified, the screwcap guaranteeing a very long life.
Drink 2006-2026 S
Drink with lamb backstrap
www.mosswood.com.au
Reschke Empyrean Cabernet Sauvignon 1998
96 points $115
When first released over two years ago by a new, unknown Coonawarra winery at $100 per bottle, the silence was deafening, good though the wine was. It is now evolving superbly, with a lovely mix of rich blackcurrant and cedar/cigar box. The palate is supple, and sweet in the best sense; long future.
Drink now-2018 C
Drink with herbed rack of lamb
www.reschke.com.au
Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz 1999
96 points $320
There has been a degree of controversy about some recent prior vintages of Hill of Grace; there can surely be none about this wine. Deep in colour, it has powerful, classic thoroughbred texture and focus to its black fruits, then silky smooth tannins and finish blossoming over the past year.
Drink 2005-2025 C
Drink with teppanyaki beef
www.henschke.com.au
Penfolds Grange 1999
96 points $390
Only the third Grange to be made with 100 per cent shiraz, all the others have had a touch of cabernet sauvignon. It has also emerged from the shadow of the 1998, as its initial touch of masculine austerity has (approrpriately) softened, revealing its lovely amalgam of black fruits, warm spice and gentle vanillan oak. The tannins are not aggressive, but will help the long life ahead.
Drink 2009-2034 C
Drink with fillet mignon
www.penfolds.com.au
Australian sparkling wine
Served fully chilled on a summer day to a thirsty audience, most sparkling wine slips down the throat without a nose wrinkled in dislike, no matter how humble the wine may be. So price is a key guide to where you want to be (and drink), but I have drawn the line at excessively sugar-sweet wines.
Queen Adelaide Brut NV
85 points $6.80
Southcorp has no less than six sparkling wines (all tank-fermented, of course) in the $5-6 range, and this appealed as the best cheap all-rounder, with excellent mousse (bubbles), plenty of grapey flavour, and controlled sweetness. Adding a dash of orange juice would not be a capital offence.
www.southcorp.com.au/wines/specialist.htm
Orlando Trilogy Cuvee But NV
88 points $15
Near the bottom of the price scale for bottle-fermented (or traditional method) sparkling wine, and made from the classic mix of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier. Crisp and elegant, with a mix of apple and nectarine, it has good length and aftertaste. No frills, but honest and to the point.
www.orlandowyndhamgroup.com/brands_wines.asp
Taltarni Brut 2002
90 points $21.50
A blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, like its vividly coloured sister Brut Tache (or rose), a blend of material from the Pyrenees, Yarra Valley and Tasmania (ex Clover Hill). The latter regions give the wine its freshness and vivacity expressed in the citrus and pear fruit, and its clean, lingering, brisk, finish.
www.taltarni.com.au
Hardys Sir James Vintage 2001
93 points $25
Sourced from Tasmania (the favourite stomping ground of Hardys sparkling wine maestro Ed Carr) and Macedon. Super-fine and elegant, it brings together pear, apple and brioche aromas and flavours; impeccably balanced, it has the long, clean finish and aftertaste which is the hallmark of all fine sparkling wines.
www.hardys.com.au
Seppelt Salinger 2001
93 points $25
Once upon a time Salinger was the most expensive wine on the Australian market, and a style pace-setter. It is well on the way back, it seems, doubtless helped by its juicy price. Complex bready/yeasty autolysis characters help impart very good mouthfeel, the finish tightened and lengthened by good acidity.
www.seppelt.com.au
Domain Chandon Z*D 2000
94 points $34
Broke new ground in two respects: first, the decision to use a stainless steel crown seal as the closure, and secondly, to use no sugar in the replacement wine following disgorgement. Opens with gently complex aromas, with good bready autolysis, then springs to life in the mouth, the fresh and lively citrus-tinged fruit intensified by the absence of dosage.
www.yarra-valley.net.au/domaine_chandon/
Kreglinger Estate Vintage Brut 1998
95 points $40
Obviously enough, made at Pipers Brook by Andrew Pirie prior to Kreglinger's acquisition of Pipers Brook, and has equally obviously spent a long time on lees prior to disgorgement. It is crammed with all the right flavours, creamy/yeasty brioche around a stone fruit and mineral core, then powers through to a long finish.
www.kreglinger.com.au
Seppelt Show Sparkling Shiraz 1994
96 points $44
By a country mile, the best sparkling red wine. It spends a minimum of six years on lees prior to disgorgement, and this release comes either with a traditional cork or a stainless steel crown cap. It exudes intense spice, licorice and blackberry fruit, and seems drier and even better balanced than prior vintages. If you can find it, buy it.
www.seppelt.com.au
Champagne
I strongly suspect the wines from the great 1996 vintage will have largely disappeared by next year, and I have therefore chosen these in preference to other first class champagnes (which I will write about anon). On the other hand, I have included two champagnes from the bargain basement, and a perennial non-vintage favourite.
Charles Joubert Special Reserve Brut NV
89 points $30
Like the 1996 Lanson, this amazing bargain was in last year's selection. The price remains unchanged and the quality better still. Indeed, I was sorely tempted to give it 90 points. A little straightforward, perhaps, but with plenty of stone fruit flavour, and clever dosage stopping short of outright sweetness.
Available through Kememys - www.kemenys.com.au
Pol Gessner NV
90 points $35
This is another direct import from the giant house of Marne et Champagne, which has over 200 labels in its repertoire. The ultimate champagne authority, Tom Stevenson, says "You can always be sure the following are of the same first quality: Alfred Rothschild, Pol Gessner…. and Gauthier." More delicate than the Joubert, it offers citrus and stone fruit set against lemony acidity. Great value.
Available through Woolworths.
Billecart-Salmon Brut Reserve NV
94 points $65
The new packaging emanates from a Paris designer, and has been adopted across the Billecart range. It is a classic example of label change which gives brand managers a bad name. However the wine in the bottle is as good as ever, with perfect balance and poise, offering a seamless mix of ripe apple, brioche and a subliminal hint of honey, followed by a lingering finish.
Imported by DWS, phone (03) 9878 7848.
Pol Roger 1996
96 points $70
If I had to name a personal favourite in champagne, Pol Roger would be right up there, while my PA Paula wouldn't have to think twice. This is a breathtakingly beautiful wine (6o per cent pinot noir, 40 per cent chardonnay) which is feather-light in the mouth, yet with an intensity and length which is utterly remarkable. A wine with decades in front of it.
Imported by Samuel Smith & Son, phone (08) 8112 4200.
Lanson Gold Label Vintage Brut 1996
94 points $80
A blend of 52 per cent pinot noir and 48 per cent chardonnay, made without the use of malolactic fermentation. This might well have posed difficulties in 1996, but the winemaker (Jean-Paul Gandon) managed to produce a series of great wines for Lanson in this year. Complex bready/baked apple aromas give way to a scintillating, crisp and crunchy palate, the acidity streaking through.
Distributed by Southcorp, phone (02) 9465 1000.
Laurent Perrier Brut Millesime 1996
94 points $85
Has reversed the trend in champagne with the de Nonancourt family repurchasing the 22 per cent stake held by the then-giant IDV Spirits group. The overall style is ultra-elegant, with chardonnay playing a major role, in this instance 55 per cent to pinot noir's 45 per cent. Bright green-yellow, the palate coruscates with tangy citrus, stone fruit and apple fruit; controlled acidity gives impeccable balance.
Imported by Orlando, phone (08) 8208 2444.
Charles Heidsieck Brut Millesime Rose 1996
95 points $105
A blend of 70 per cent pinot noir/meuniere and 30 per cent chardonnay, with added pinot noir red wine. Pale salmon, it has very intense dried fruit and strawberry aromas, leading into a palate with superb acidity, drive and length. The softer touch of rose works particularly well in the brilliantly incisive vintage of 1996, simply adding to the lingering finish.
Imported by Maxxium, phone (02) 9418 5000.
Gosset Millesime 1996
96 points $120
Gosset is not only one of the smallest houses (50,000 cases), but is the oldest producer of wine in Champagne, established by Pierre Gosset in 1584, remaining in family ownership for over 400 years until acquired by the Cointreau family in 1994. as this beautifully balanced and structured wine shows, the quality remains very high, the long, lingering slippery/squeaky acidity as fresh as a spring day.
Imported by Mezzanine, phone 1300 555 821.
Devaux Cuvee D Millesime 1996
96 points $145
The ultra-minimalist packaging appeals, as other champagnes appear with lurid pink labels, fishnet stockings and such like. With equal parts of pinot noir and chardonnay, it is by far the best wine I have tasted from Devaux. Bright green-yellow, with excellent mousse, it has fragrant, flowery acacia aromas, and an elegantly fresh, lively palate, the 1996 acidity there but in balance.
Contact Nadege Sune, phone (03) 9730 0100.
Bollinger Grand Annee 1996
95 points $185
Always a pinot-dominant wine (60 per cent), the remainder chardonnay, with no pinot meunier, which is part of the reason why the wine is so powerful. It polarises opinion; like Krug it is the polar opposite to Dom. Straw-bronze in colour, it is extremely complex, with layers of apple, spice, brioche and toast offset to perfection by the steely acidity running through to the finish.
Imported by Tucker Seabrook, phone 1800 251 187.
Dom Perignon 1996
98 points $240
Yes, I know, I have written about this wine previously, but it is impossible to leave it out; Dom is great in any vintage, but in 1996 it metaphorically reaches the stars which the monk Dom Perignon saw 300 years ago. Its glistening fruit reaches every crevice of the mouth, its seamless balance, harmony and length sheer perfection.
Imported by Moet-Hennessy, contact Francois-Xavier Piganeau, phone (02) 8344 9900.
Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 1996
97 points $240
Generally recognised as one of the best super-luxury brands, like Dom always coming from specific, self-owned vineyards in a 60 per cent pinot noir, 40 per cent chardonnay split. The bouquet explodes with apple blossom-accented fruit, and the wine literally dances on the tongue with apple, citrus and nectarine plus a subliminal touch of toast before finishing with superbly balanced acidity.
Imported by Moet-Hennessy, contact Justin Walters, phone (02) 8344 9900.
I strongly suspect the wines from the great 1996 vintage will have largely disappeared by next year, and I have therefore chosen these in preference to other first class champagnes (which I will write about anon). On the other hand, I have included two champagnes from the bargain basement, and a perennial non-vintage favourite.
Charles Joubert Special Reserve Brut NV
89 points $30
Like the 1996 Lanson, this amazing bargain was in last year's selection. The price remains unchanged and the quality better still. Indeed, I was sorely tempted to give it 90 points. A little straightforward, perhaps, but with plenty of stone fruit flavour, and clever dosage stopping short of outright sweetness.
Available through Kememys - www.kemenys.com.au
Pol Gessner NV
90 points $35
This is another direct import from the giant house of Marne et Champagne, which has over 200 labels in its repertoire. The ultimate champagne authority, Tom Stevenson, says "You can always be sure the following are of the same first quality: Alfred Rothschild, Pol Gessner…. and Gauthier." More delicate than the Joubert, it offers citrus and stone fruit set against lemony acidity. Great value.
Available through Woolworths.
Billecart-Salmon Brut Reserve NV
94 points $65
The new packaging emanates from a Paris designer, and has been adopted across the Billecart range. It is a classic example of label change which gives brand managers a bad name. However the wine in the bottle is as good as ever, with perfect balance and poise, offering a seamless mix of ripe apple, brioche and a subliminal hint of honey, followed by a lingering finish.
Imported by DWS, phone (03) 9878 7848.
Pol Roger 1996
96 points $70
If I had to name a personal favourite in champagne, Pol Roger would be right up there, while my PA Paula wouldn't have to think twice. This is a breathtakingly beautiful wine (6o per cent pinot noir, 40 per cent chardonnay) which is feather-light in the mouth, yet with an intensity and length which is utterly remarkable. A wine with decades in front of it.
Imported by Samuel Smith & Son, phone (08) 8112 4200.
Lanson Gold Label Vintage Brut 1996
94 points $80
A blend of 52 per cent pinot noir and 48 per cent chardonnay, made without the use of malolactic fermentation. This might well have posed difficulties in 1996, but the winemaker (Jean-Paul Gandon) managed to produce a series of great wines for Lanson in this year. Complex bready/baked apple aromas give way to a scintillating, crisp and crunchy palate, the acidity streaking through.
Distributed by Southcorp, phone (02) 9465 1000.
Laurent Perrier Brut Millesime 1996
94 points $85
Has reversed the trend in champagne with the de Nonancourt family repurchasing the 22 per cent stake held by the then-giant IDV Spirits group. The overall style is ultra-elegant, with chardonnay playing a major role, in this instance 55 per cent to pinot noir's 45 per cent. Bright green-yellow, the palate coruscates with tangy citrus, stone fruit and apple fruit; controlled acidity gives impeccable balance.
Imported by Orlando, phone (08) 8208 2444.
Charles Heidsieck Brut Millesime Rose 1996
95 points $105
A blend of 70 per cent pinot noir/meuniere and 30 per cent chardonnay, with added pinot noir red wine. Pale salmon, it has very intense dried fruit and strawberry aromas, leading into a palate with superb acidity, drive and length. The softer touch of rose works particularly well in the brilliantly incisive vintage of 1996, simply adding to the lingering finish.
Imported by Maxxium, phone (02) 9418 5000.
Gosset Millesime 1996
96 points $120
Gosset is not only one of the smallest houses (50,000 cases), but is the oldest producer of wine in Champagne, established by Pierre Gosset in 1584, remaining in family ownership for over 400 years until acquired by the Cointreau family in 1994. as this beautifully balanced and structured wine shows, the quality remains very high, the long, lingering slippery/squeaky acidity as fresh as a spring day.
Imported by Mezzanine, phone 1300 555 821.
Devaux Cuvee D Millesime 1996
96 points $145
The ultra-minimalist packaging appeals, as other champagnes appear with lurid pink labels, fishnet stockings and such like. With equal parts of pinot noir and chardonnay, it is by far the best wine I have tasted from Devaux. Bright green-yellow, with excellent mousse, it has fragrant, flowery acacia aromas, and an elegantly fresh, lively palate, the 1996 acidity there but in balance.
Contact Nadege Sune, phone (03) 9730 0100.
Bollinger Grand Annee 1996
95 points $185
Always a pinot-dominant wine (60 per cent), the remainder chardonnay, with no pinot meunier, which is part of the reason why the wine is so powerful. It polarises opinion; like Krug it is the polar opposite to Dom. Straw-bronze in colour, it is extremely complex, with layers of apple, spice, brioche and toast offset to perfection by the steely acidity running through to the finish.
Imported by Tucker Seabrook, phone 1800 251 187.
Dom Perignon 1996
98 points $240
Yes, I know, I have written about this wine previously, but it is impossible to leave it out; Dom is great in any vintage, but in 1996 it metaphorically reaches the stars which the monk Dom Perignon saw 300 years ago. Its glistening fruit reaches every crevice of the mouth, its seamless balance, harmony and length sheer perfection.
Imported by Moet-Hennessy, contact Francois-Xavier Piganeau, phone (02) 8344 9900.
Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 1996
97 points $240
Generally recognised as one of the best super-luxury brands, like Dom always coming from specific, self-owned vineyards in a 60 per cent pinot noir, 40 per cent chardonnay split. The bouquet explodes with apple blossom-accented fruit, and the wine literally dances on the tongue with apple, citrus and nectarine plus a subliminal touch of toast before finishing with superbly balanced acidity.
Imported by Moet-Hennessy, contact Justin Walters, phone (02) 8344 9900.
Feature - Diversity is the Spice of Life
The numerical growth in the number of wineries and wines tells only part of the ever-growing mosaic which is the Australian wine industry of today. Last year I wrote about the joys of the cellar door in the context of both long established and newly emerging wine regions. This year I will look at the ever increasing diversity of wine style and variety you will find at cellar door and (in some instances) on retailers wine shelves.
First up is rose. There were 20 wines entered, and at least six were in serious contention for inclusion. But the really good news is that at long last consumers are starting to buy and enjoy what are, without doubt, the best-made roses in the world. (Navarre, in northern Spain, is the main challenger.) These are wines perfectly suited for the Australian summer, and, if made dry and served fully chilled, can be matched with virtually any food other than barbecued rump steak.
Next, there are the up and coming white varietals, led by pinot gris (18 entered), viognier (15) and a host of even newer varietals, many of which were not in the field simply because the vines are too young and the quantities available are too small. Reverting for a moment to the mainstream, the numbers basically reflect the overall picture in Australia: chardonnay on top (177 wines entered), then riesling (83), sauvignon blanc (45), semillon (38) and sauvignon semillon blends (41).
The red wine spectrum is even more diverse: sangiovese (12) and durif (7) led the way, with barbera, nebbiolo, petit verdot, tempranillo and zinfandel all represented, along with long established mourvedre and malbec in single varietal form; some of these were also in the dozen non-mainstream red blends.
Very briefly, the icon red varietals submitted were shiraz (222) and shiraz blends (31); cabernet sauvignon (120) and cabernet blends (73), including cabernet merlots; pinot noir (71); merlot and merlot blends (40); and grenache and grenache blends (27).
If you want to taste as many as possible of the newest and least common varietals, both white and red, there is one region which stands out beyond all others: Victoria's picturesque King Valley, best experienced over a weekend, but with a dedicated driver (in all senses of the word) accessible in a long day trip from Melbourne's CBD or with easy access to the M80 ring road, thence the Hume Highway.
Add a day, and you can visit one of the up and coming regions of Beechworth, the town a glorious sight in autumn, but pretty at any time of the year. Giaconda and Castagna are the key wineries, but appointments are essential and not easy to get without an introduction (especially Giaconda; which is in a permanently sold-out situation).
If this doesn't work out, Brown Brothers at Milawa at the foot of the King Valley, has Australia's most successful cellar door facility, selling more wine than any other. Moreover, Brown Brothers were the first to start commercial trials with then new varietals, long before others got the message. Today there are 40 different wines on offer, made from 26 different varieties or blends. More than a few of these are cellar door-only releases.
Will we see even more varietals coming onto the scene in the future? The answer is certainly: for example, Austria's gruner veltliner (similar to a richly textured riesling) is still not here, nor are any of its exotic array of red wines such as blauburger, blauer portugisier, blaukfrankish and blauer zwiegelt. Italy has a staggering 2000-plus varieties, with a dozen or more from the south having particular promise for Australia. Portugal, too, has varieties to offer which would seemingly adapt well.
What is less clear is whether these varietals will have an enduring place in the Australian sun, or will they be a brief-lived novelty? Perhaps the better question is which of them will stand the test of time, for some won't. but the vines have got some age, and the right (and wrong) site climates have to be identified before final answers can be given.
In the meantime, my Varietal Wines, published by Harper Collins last month, looks at the 88 varieties grown and vinified in Australia, and for the more important varieties, at their international counterparts and their history. It may help in unravelling the varietal knot, with 25 splendid colour photographs of the main varieties by Richard Humphrys.
The numerical growth in the number of wineries and wines tells only part of the ever-growing mosaic which is the Australian wine industry of today. Last year I wrote about the joys of the cellar door in the context of both long established and newly emerging wine regions. This year I will look at the ever increasing diversity of wine style and variety you will find at cellar door and (in some instances) on retailers wine shelves.
First up is rose. There were 20 wines entered, and at least six were in serious contention for inclusion. But the really good news is that at long last consumers are starting to buy and enjoy what are, without doubt, the best-made roses in the world. (Navarre, in northern Spain, is the main challenger.) These are wines perfectly suited for the Australian summer, and, if made dry and served fully chilled, can be matched with virtually any food other than barbecued rump steak.
Next, there are the up and coming white varietals, led by pinot gris (18 entered), viognier (15) and a host of even newer varietals, many of which were not in the field simply because the vines are too young and the quantities available are too small. Reverting for a moment to the mainstream, the numbers basically reflect the overall picture in Australia: chardonnay on top (177 wines entered), then riesling (83), sauvignon blanc (45), semillon (38) and sauvignon semillon blends (41).
The red wine spectrum is even more diverse: sangiovese (12) and durif (7) led the way, with barbera, nebbiolo, petit verdot, tempranillo and zinfandel all represented, along with long established mourvedre and malbec in single varietal form; some of these were also in the dozen non-mainstream red blends.
Very briefly, the icon red varietals submitted were shiraz (222) and shiraz blends (31); cabernet sauvignon (120) and cabernet blends (73), including cabernet merlots; pinot noir (71); merlot and merlot blends (40); and grenache and grenache blends (27).
If you want to taste as many as possible of the newest and least common varietals, both white and red, there is one region which stands out beyond all others: Victoria's picturesque King Valley, best experienced over a weekend, but with a dedicated driver (in all senses of the word) accessible in a long day trip from Melbourne's CBD or with easy access to the M80 ring road, thence the Hume Highway.
Add a day, and you can visit one of the up and coming regions of Beechworth, the town a glorious sight in autumn, but pretty at any time of the year. Giaconda and Castagna are the key wineries, but appointments are essential and not easy to get without an introduction (especially Giaconda; which is in a permanently sold-out situation).
If this doesn't work out, Brown Brothers at Milawa at the foot of the King Valley, has Australia's most successful cellar door facility, selling more wine than any other. Moreover, Brown Brothers were the first to start commercial trials with then new varietals, long before others got the message. Today there are 40 different wines on offer, made from 26 different varieties or blends. More than a few of these are cellar door-only releases.
Will we see even more varietals coming onto the scene in the future? The answer is certainly: for example, Austria's gruner veltliner (similar to a richly textured riesling) is still not here, nor are any of its exotic array of red wines such as blauburger, blauer portugisier, blaukfrankish and blauer zwiegelt. Italy has a staggering 2000-plus varieties, with a dozen or more from the south having particular promise for Australia. Portugal, too, has varieties to offer which would seemingly adapt well.
What is less clear is whether these varietals will have an enduring place in the Australian sun, or will they be a brief-lived novelty? Perhaps the better question is which of them will stand the test of time, for some won't. but the vines have got some age, and the right (and wrong) site climates have to be identified before final answers can be given.
In the meantime, my Varietal Wines, published by Harper Collins last month, looks at the 88 varieties grown and vinified in Australia, and for the more important varieties, at their international counterparts and their history. It may help in unravelling the varietal knot, with 25 splendid colour photographs of the main varieties by Richard Humphrys.
