Vintage Cellars Tastings
ARGENTINA
2007 Bodega Norton Torrontes
Has a distinctly floral, fruity bouquet, with juicy fruit evident on the fore-palate, but does chop off with a short finish.
84 points; Now; 13 alc; screwcap; $9.95
2005 Bodega Norton Reserva Malbec
Crimson-purple; bursting with ripe fruit, verging on confiture, so typical of the variety; tailor-made for an Argentinean barbecue; great value from one of Argentina's best producers.
88 points; to 2014; 14 alc; cork; $13.95
CALIFORNIA
2005 Ridge Lytton Springs Zinfandel
Has all that is expected from the unchallenged King of Zinfandel (with a judicious 17% Petite Sirah and 6% Carignane). The spicy blackberry fruit flavours are backed by great texture and structure from perfectly judged tannin and oak support.
96 points; to 2020; 14.4 alc; high quality cork; $69.95
CHILE
2006 Casillero del Diablo Reserva Carmenere
Is as undoubtedly varietal as the Norton Malbec, but the mint and vegetal overtones to both bouquet and palate are less appealing. That said, an inexpensive way to find out why carmenere disappeared from Bordeaux.
85 points; to 2010; 13.5 alc; cork; $14.50
FRANCE
2000 Champagne Drappier Grande Sendrée Brut
Delicious fruit base typical of the 2000 vintage, built around nectarine, with touches of red fruits and brioche; greatest strength is the perfectly balanced acidity on the lingering finish.
93 points; to 2012; 12 alc; cork; $69.95
2006 Domaines les Ondines Plan de Dieu
Bright colour; has abundant ripe fruit, though not porty nor obviously alcoholic; has unexpected texture and structure, and will repay two to four years cellaring.
89 points; to 2012; 15 alc; cork; $17.95
NV Gratient & Meyer Saumur Brut
You live and learn: in prior decades this wine was 100% chenin blanc; now it incorporates a little cabernet franc (widely grown in the Loire Valley) and chardonnay, which do add a dimension to both the flavour and finish to the ripe stone fruit flavours.
88 points; to 2010; 12.5 alc; cork; $29.95
2006 Henry Pellé Menetou-Salon
Classy wine, floral and aromatic with excellent intensity and thrust to the palate; has depth to the ripe gooseberry fruit, but the best feature is the length of the finish and aftertaste.
92 points; Now; 13 alc; cork; $24.95
2006 Les Nuages Loire Organic Reserve Sauvignon Blanc
Creditable sauvignon blanc with clear varietal character; food style, as the flavour is achieved in part from phenolics which congest the finish, and a hint of residual sweetness.
86 points; Now; 12. 5 alc; screwcap; $14.95
2005 Maison Champy Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Lively light red-purple; fresh cherry and damson plum aromas, pure fruit on the long, well balanced palate. Entry-point Burgundies don't come better than this.
90 points; to 2011; 13 alc; screwcap; $24.95
ITALY
2006 Kellerei Cantina Tramin Pinot Grigio
Fairly rapid development almost certainly courtesy of the synthetic cork; big, bold and slightly thick flavour, poached pear and cream style.
86 points; Now; 13.5 alc; synthetic; $21.95
2006 Kellerei Cantina Tramin Lagrein
Lifted cherry-chocolate-mint aromas and flavours; does have length and line, but not much structure.
87 points; to 2009; 12.5 alc; cork; $24.95
NV Ombra Prosecco
Unpretentious, simple tutti frutti aroma and flavour, then a pleasingly dry, if short, finish.
85 points; Now; 11 alc; cork; $15.95
2004 Piana del Sole Negroamaro Salento
Slightly diffuse/cloudy colour; has ripe prune and plum fruit; seemingly higher in alcohol than is the case; lacks structure and line.
85 points; Now; 13 alc; cork; $11.95
2006 Podere Ruggeri Corsini Dolcetto d'Alba
Typical vivid purple-crimson colour of young dolcetto; floods the mouth with raspberry fruit and a dash of bitter chocolate, and persistent but ripe tannins. A very good example of an underrated variety.
92 points; to 2012; 13.5 alc; synthetic normacorc; $23.95
2006 Suavia Soave Classico
Developed yellow-green; full-bodied wine, with mouth-coating figgy/nutty fruit; has length without reliance on residual sugar.
88 points; Now; 12.5 alc; cork; $19.95
2004 Villa Terlina Gradale Barbera d'Asti
Holding colour well; a supple and long palate, the fruit flavours caressing the tongue, enriched by a savoury nuance on the finish. Comparatively expensive, but well worth the money; seriously good wine.
94 points; to 2013; 14 alc; cork; $34.95
PORTUGAL
2005 Casa Santos Lima Quinta das Setencostas Alenquer
An unashamedly full-bodied, full-frontal wine charged with rustic, black fruit flavours; made from four native grape varieties impossible to spell or pronounce.
88 points; to 2012; 13 alc; cork; $14.95
SOUTH AFRICA
2007 Flagstone Winery The Berrio Sauvignon Blanc
Very pale; quality sauvignon blanc underlining South Africa's luck with its clonal selections of the variety, here augmented by cool (most southerly) region and skilled winemaking. Delicious flavour persists through the long, refined, and minerally palate.
92 points; to 2009; 13.5 alc; screwcap; $19.95
SPAIN
2006 Aradon Rioja Tinto
Exceptional value; the absence of oak (and minimal tannins) only serve to heighten the fruit flavours in a raspberry and plum spectrum. All the signs of sophisticated winemaking via micro-oxygenation. Exceptional value. Tempranillo 50%/Garnacha 50%.
88 points; Now; 14 alc; synthetic Normacorc; $9.95
2006 Burgans Albarino
A relatively restrained bouquet, albeit clean and with no hint of reduction; is followed by a far more expressive palate, with generous mouthfeel and ripe tropical fruit flavours. Good all-purpose wine.
89 points; Now; 12.5 alc; screwcap; $19.95
2007 Con Class Verdejo
Bright pale straw-green; clean and very fresh, with a slight touch of CO2 spritz on the palate adding to an otherwise delicate, light-bodied wine; pleasing lemony acidity on the finish.
87 points; Now; 12.5 alc; screwcap; $11.95
2005 Cosme Palcio Cosecha
Holding red-purple hue very well; classic Rioja except for one thing - French oak rather than American. Medium-bodied and elegant, a wine which can be enjoyed any time with almost any vegetarian, meat or cheese dish.
89 points; to 2012; 13.5 alc; cork; $17.95
2007 Bodega Norton Torrontes
Has a distinctly floral, fruity bouquet, with juicy fruit evident on the fore-palate, but does chop off with a short finish.
84 points; Now; 13 alc; screwcap; $9.95
2005 Bodega Norton Reserva Malbec
Crimson-purple; bursting with ripe fruit, verging on confiture, so typical of the variety; tailor-made for an Argentinean barbecue; great value from one of Argentina's best producers.
88 points; to 2014; 14 alc; cork; $13.95
CALIFORNIA
2005 Ridge Lytton Springs Zinfandel
Has all that is expected from the unchallenged King of Zinfandel (with a judicious 17% Petite Sirah and 6% Carignane). The spicy blackberry fruit flavours are backed by great texture and structure from perfectly judged tannin and oak support.
96 points; to 2020; 14.4 alc; high quality cork; $69.95
CHILE
2006 Casillero del Diablo Reserva Carmenere
Is as undoubtedly varietal as the Norton Malbec, but the mint and vegetal overtones to both bouquet and palate are less appealing. That said, an inexpensive way to find out why carmenere disappeared from Bordeaux.
85 points; to 2010; 13.5 alc; cork; $14.50
FRANCE
2000 Champagne Drappier Grande Sendrée Brut
Delicious fruit base typical of the 2000 vintage, built around nectarine, with touches of red fruits and brioche; greatest strength is the perfectly balanced acidity on the lingering finish.
93 points; to 2012; 12 alc; cork; $69.95
2006 Domaines les Ondines Plan de Dieu
Bright colour; has abundant ripe fruit, though not porty nor obviously alcoholic; has unexpected texture and structure, and will repay two to four years cellaring.
89 points; to 2012; 15 alc; cork; $17.95
NV Gratient & Meyer Saumur Brut
You live and learn: in prior decades this wine was 100% chenin blanc; now it incorporates a little cabernet franc (widely grown in the Loire Valley) and chardonnay, which do add a dimension to both the flavour and finish to the ripe stone fruit flavours.
88 points; to 2010; 12.5 alc; cork; $29.95
2006 Henry Pellé Menetou-Salon
Classy wine, floral and aromatic with excellent intensity and thrust to the palate; has depth to the ripe gooseberry fruit, but the best feature is the length of the finish and aftertaste.
92 points; Now; 13 alc; cork; $24.95
2006 Les Nuages Loire Organic Reserve Sauvignon Blanc
Creditable sauvignon blanc with clear varietal character; food style, as the flavour is achieved in part from phenolics which congest the finish, and a hint of residual sweetness.
86 points; Now; 12. 5 alc; screwcap; $14.95
2005 Maison Champy Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Lively light red-purple; fresh cherry and damson plum aromas, pure fruit on the long, well balanced palate. Entry-point Burgundies don't come better than this.
90 points; to 2011; 13 alc; screwcap; $24.95
ITALY
2006 Kellerei Cantina Tramin Pinot Grigio
Fairly rapid development almost certainly courtesy of the synthetic cork; big, bold and slightly thick flavour, poached pear and cream style.
86 points; Now; 13.5 alc; synthetic; $21.95
2006 Kellerei Cantina Tramin Lagrein
Lifted cherry-chocolate-mint aromas and flavours; does have length and line, but not much structure.
87 points; to 2009; 12.5 alc; cork; $24.95
NV Ombra Prosecco
Unpretentious, simple tutti frutti aroma and flavour, then a pleasingly dry, if short, finish.
85 points; Now; 11 alc; cork; $15.95
2004 Piana del Sole Negroamaro Salento
Slightly diffuse/cloudy colour; has ripe prune and plum fruit; seemingly higher in alcohol than is the case; lacks structure and line.
85 points; Now; 13 alc; cork; $11.95
2006 Podere Ruggeri Corsini Dolcetto d'Alba
Typical vivid purple-crimson colour of young dolcetto; floods the mouth with raspberry fruit and a dash of bitter chocolate, and persistent but ripe tannins. A very good example of an underrated variety.
92 points; to 2012; 13.5 alc; synthetic normacorc; $23.95
2006 Suavia Soave Classico
Developed yellow-green; full-bodied wine, with mouth-coating figgy/nutty fruit; has length without reliance on residual sugar.
88 points; Now; 12.5 alc; cork; $19.95
2004 Villa Terlina Gradale Barbera d'Asti
Holding colour well; a supple and long palate, the fruit flavours caressing the tongue, enriched by a savoury nuance on the finish. Comparatively expensive, but well worth the money; seriously good wine.
94 points; to 2013; 14 alc; cork; $34.95
PORTUGAL
2005 Casa Santos Lima Quinta das Setencostas Alenquer
An unashamedly full-bodied, full-frontal wine charged with rustic, black fruit flavours; made from four native grape varieties impossible to spell or pronounce.
88 points; to 2012; 13 alc; cork; $14.95
SOUTH AFRICA
2007 Flagstone Winery The Berrio Sauvignon Blanc
Very pale; quality sauvignon blanc underlining South Africa's luck with its clonal selections of the variety, here augmented by cool (most southerly) region and skilled winemaking. Delicious flavour persists through the long, refined, and minerally palate.
92 points; to 2009; 13.5 alc; screwcap; $19.95
SPAIN
2006 Aradon Rioja Tinto
Exceptional value; the absence of oak (and minimal tannins) only serve to heighten the fruit flavours in a raspberry and plum spectrum. All the signs of sophisticated winemaking via micro-oxygenation. Exceptional value. Tempranillo 50%/Garnacha 50%.
88 points; Now; 14 alc; synthetic Normacorc; $9.95
2006 Burgans Albarino
A relatively restrained bouquet, albeit clean and with no hint of reduction; is followed by a far more expressive palate, with generous mouthfeel and ripe tropical fruit flavours. Good all-purpose wine.
89 points; Now; 12.5 alc; screwcap; $19.95
2007 Con Class Verdejo
Bright pale straw-green; clean and very fresh, with a slight touch of CO2 spritz on the palate adding to an otherwise delicate, light-bodied wine; pleasing lemony acidity on the finish.
87 points; Now; 12.5 alc; screwcap; $11.95
2005 Cosme Palcio Cosecha
Holding red-purple hue very well; classic Rioja except for one thing - French oak rather than American. Medium-bodied and elegant, a wine which can be enjoyed any time with almost any vegetarian, meat or cheese dish.
89 points; to 2012; 13.5 alc; cork; $17.95
