This is a highly subjective list of wineries that have excelled over the past 12 months. Some are large, some small; some are old, some quite new. In every case, this year's rating is higher than last year's, with all achieving 5 stars. At the risk of repeating myself, this is not a list of the best wineries.

Audrey Wilkinson Lower Hunter Valley
Although the vineyards are barely 10 years old, this is one of the most historic properties in the Hunter Valley, with a beautiful location and cellar door. In 2004 it was acquired by Brian Agnew and family, and the wines have since improved out of all recognition.

Berrys Bridge Pyrenees
It has been a long road for Roger Milner and Jane Holt stretching over two states and two decades, but the quality of the full-bodied red wines has made it all worthwhile, with three glorious wines from 2004.

Bress Bendigo
Adam Marks casts the largest imaginable net around Australia from home base at Bendigo, reaching as far afield as the Margaret River and Yarra Valley, and varieties such as muller thurgau. This year's releases hit the mark.

Carbunup Crest vineyard Margaret River
After a dip in quality over 2006 and 2007 (after an earlier spectacular start) Carbunup Crest has returned to its best form, with classic Margaret River wines at thoroughly affordable prices.

Cascabel McLaren Vale
Duncan Ferguson and Susana Fernandez just missed out on a 5-star rating in 2006 and 2007, but there was no denying it this year, with a brilliant Eden Valley Riesling and Fleurieu Shiraz leading the way.

Delatite Upper Goulburn
Long recognised for the perfume and delicacy of its white wines, but not always hitting the bullseye. There have been a number of changes at home base, and these are reflected in the extreme quality of the current wines.

Fonty's Pool Vineyards Pemberton
The origins of the property date back 100 years; the name from a huge dam built in the 1920s. These days 110 ha of vineyards allow Fonty's Pool to cherry-pick the best, and it has never been far off the mark. This year it brought home the bacon.

Mountadam Eden Valley
After a relatively brief period of ownership by Moet Hennessy Wine Estates, Mountadam has been purchased by Adelaide businessman-cum-vigneron David Brown, and former Petaluma chief winemaker Con Moshos has been installed. Quite how he has achieved so much in such a short time I don't know, but the results are, to say the least, impressive.

Polleters Pyrenees
Polleters has moved from 4 to 4.5 and now to 5 stars. Its full-bodied, supple and succulent red wines, contract-made by Mark Summerfield, are worth every penny of the relatively modest purchase price.

Serafino Wines McLaren Vale
Born out of the convulsions in McLaren Vale following the initial financial problems of Andrew Garrett, and then the acquisition of Maglieri Wines by Beringer Blass, Serafino Wines has emerged under the ownership of Steve Maglieri, and with the wizardry of Scott Rawlinson as winemaker. A strong gambit for winery of the year.

Footnote: I was sorely tempted to include Boireann from the Granite Belt, but it has held 5-star status for the last 2 years. In turn, its inclusion would have been in recognition not only of its continuing achievements, but the very marked lift in quality of Queensland's wines, mainly (though not exclusively) in the Granite Belt.