This is a highly subjective selection of 10 wineries that have excelled over the past 12 months. Thus they are not new wineries, nor 10 of the best (both covered elsewhere) but do have that little bit extra. Four come from Western Australia, three from South Australia, two from New South Wales and one from Victoria. Western Australia's strong performance reflects the excellent 2007 and 2008 vintages, far better than those of the east.

CHRISMONT King Valley, Vic
Chrismont is a long-established King Valley producer owned by Arnie and Jo Pizzini. They focus on a full range of Italian varieties, winemaker Warren Proft teasing out the best features of these sometimes difficult varieties. The wines are all made from the 80 hectares of estate vineyards, and the current releases are of high quality and full of interest.

EDEN SPRINGS Eden Valley, SA
Eden Springs is the venture of self-confessed wine lover Ray Gatt, who not only acquired the 20-hectare, 35-year-old Eden Springs Vineyard, but added the historic Siegersdorf Vineyard on the Barossa floor, and the neighbouring Graue Vineyard. High-quality contract winemaking has done the rest; the High Eden Riesling, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon are all excellent. The prices are mouth-watering.

GLEN ELDON WINES Barossa Valley, SA
Glen Eldon Wines is the venture of brothers Richard and Andrew Sheedy, and their wives Mary and Sue, who have acquired 30 hectares of high-quality Barossa vineyards, primarily planted to shiraz and cabernet sauvignon. Contract-grown grapes fill out the offering with Eden Valley Riesling, Barossa Viognier and other wines. The top-of-the-range Shirazs are expensive ($95 to $110), but there are three bargains (Shiraz, Shiraz Mataro and Cabernet Sauvignon) at $25 scoring 94 to 95 points.

HELM Canberra District, NSW
Helm is the eponymous winery of Ken Helm, an indefatigable promoter of his wines and of the Canberra District generally, ever willing to appear on television or be interviewed on radio to discuss almost any subject, frequently with a sting in the tail. He has long focused on riesling, and was one of the key movers in establishing the International Riesling Competition staged in Canberra each year. It was thus wholly appropriate that his 2008 Classic Dry Riesling and Premium Riesling should both bring the trophies and gold medals he has long sought. You might think he will let the wines speak for themselves in the future, but I somehow doubt that.

ORANJE TRACTOR Albany, WA
Oranje Tractor takes its name from the 1964 orange-coloured Fiat tractor purchased by Murray Gomm and Pamela Lincoln when they began the establishment of their Albany vineyard in 1998. Their 3-hectare organic vineyard is planted mainly to riesling (the winery specialty) with some sauvignon blanc and a small amount of pinot noir. The remote location, and basically weekend opening times, mean they have limited quantities of vintages going back to 2003 on sale.

POACHER'S RIDGE VINEYARD Mount Barker, WA
Poacher's Ridge Vineyard, established by Alex and Janet Taylor near Narrikup in Mount Barker, didn't produce its first commercial crop until 2004, but has been knocking on the 5-star door since that time, in no small measure on the back of the very successful Louis' Block Merlot; having said that, contract maker Rob Diletti is doing great things with the Vineyard's Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz (as well as Merlot).

SMALLFRY WINES Barossa Valley, SA
Smallfry Wines is the venture of Wayne Ahrens and partner Suzi Hilder, the latter the daughter of well-known Upper Hunter viticulturist Dick Hilder, Ahrens from a fifth-generation Barossa family. The majority of the grapes from the 27 hectares of their two vineyards are sold, a small amount retained to support the Smallfry label. The pick of the crop and skilled winemaking come up with the right answer.

WARRAROONG ESTATE Lower Hunter Valley, NSW
Warraroong Estate dates back to 1978, when the vineyard was planted Peter Fraser and known as Fraser Vineyard. Now owned by Bob Bradley and Linda Abrahams, the skills of contract winemaker Andrew Thomas shine through on all the wines, none more so than the Semillon, with four vintages (2005-08 inclusive) now available for sale.

WATERSHED WINES Margaret River, WA
Watershed Wines is, on any measure, a major success, its 187 hectares of vineyards producing 90 000 cases of high-quality wines for its investment syndicate owners. Relatively few of the investment scheme developments flourish, and this is an exception that proves the rule in no uncertain fashion. Senses Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Merlot (94 points each) are great value at around $24, Awakening Single Block Chardonnay ($40) and Wakening Cabernet Sauvignon ($55) are at another quality level (95 and 96 points respectively).

WILLS DOMAIN Margaret River, WA
Wills Domain was purchased by Michelle and Darren Haunold in 2000, adding another chapter to a family history of winemaking stretching back to 1383 in modern day Austria. Prior to their purchase of the vineyard, which had been planted in 1985, the grapes were sold. Since 2001 the wines have been contract made, Darren Haunold's responsibility being the maintenance of the 21 hectares of estate plantings. That may not seem unusual, except that Darren Haunold lost the use of his legs in a car accident when he was 13, and does the work (including part of the pruning) from his wheelchair.