As the Hunter Valley largely finished picking semillon at the end of January, and wondered whether January vintage dates would become standard fare, the ever-young Karl Stockhausen celebrated his 80th birthday. Karl succeeded Hans Mollenhauer as chief winemaker at Lindemans Ben Ean winery in the Hunter Valley in 1960, and between then and 1980 was responsible for the glorious array of semillons (quixotically labelled riesling, chablis, white burgundy or hock) and great shirazs, none greater than the 1965 Bin 3100 and Bin 3110. Those two red wines will not only cruise past their 50th birthday, but go on towards 100 years old if re-corked when necessary and well-cellared. The semillons of the 1960s, culminating in 1970, swept all before them in wine shows when 10 to 20 years old. Bottles that have been re-corked or particularly well-cellared are still magnificent. However, the Sunshine Vineyard that was the prime source of the grapes for these great wines was effectively decommissioned by corporate owner Phillip Morris’ accountants, and subsequent vintages never reached the same heights.

As I think back on those wines, I am led to wonder why I (and other wine writers) have not automatically included Karl Stockhausen as one of the winemaking greats of the 20th century.