Australian sommeliers are convinced that if you can’t afford Burgundy, pinot noir from New Zealand’s Central Otago region is the next best thing, our pinot noirs being dismissed with an imperious sniff. Then there is the much discussed sauvignon tsunami from across the Tasman. Now the Kiwis are staring down Australian shiraz, our most important grape and wine. In 2008 our country’s 44,000 hectares (25 per cent of total plantings) of shiraz vines produced 442,000 tonnes – narrowly in front of chardonnay on both measures.

How is it then that New Zealand is stirring us up with its recent, and still tiny, venture into shiraz? The answer lies in one region above all others: Hawke’s Bay. It has 192 hectares of shiraz, two-thirds of New Zealand’s total, most planted since 1999.

The Hawke’s Bay Syrah Challenge pits its wines against Mornington Peninsula and Yarra Valley Shiraz, the latter two a team. The choice of Australian regions was based on the similarity of the climate of the three regions. Bob Campbell
MW chose the five local wines, I selected the Australian ones. They were served blind in pairs to the 39 participants, each of whom had to decide which wine they preferred, and say whether it was Australian or New Zealand. On the second question the majority was wrong on all five pairs. Perhaps it was the assumption that the Australian wines would be fuller-bodied, riper and richer – which they generally weren’t.

The first pair put 2007 Bilancia La Collina against 2007 Red Hill Estate. It was the largest margin: 33 votes to six in favour of the super-fragrant and lively Red Hill Estate Shiraz. Next up, 2006 Domaine Chandon Barrel Selection was paired with 2007 Vidal Reserve Syrah, with a slim win for the Vidal. Next, 2007 Paringa Estate Shiraz had the misfortune to come up against 2007 Craggy Range Le Sol, losing 10 to 28. While I liked the 2006 Toolangi Estate Reserve Shiraz, it was obliterated by the 2007 Church Road Reserve, 31 to five. The final pair saw an 18-all tie (there were abstentions, it seems) between 2007 Yering Station Reserve Shiraz Viognier and another highly ranked New Zealander, 2007 Trinity Hill Homage.

2007 Paringa Estate ‘Estate’ Shiraz
Vibrant colour; a heady mixture of elegance and ripe, luscious black fruit; plum, blackberry, pepper and fresh sage engage on the bouquet; medium-bodied with racy acidity and really silky tannin, the not inconsiderable oak a mere  afterthought in the wake of the expansive fruit on offer. In the Hawke’s Bay Syrah Challenge tasting it had tremendous thrust, and was by far the most powerful and concentrated wine of the day. 14.5% alc/vol, screwcap
Rating: 96 points
Drink: to 2020
Price: $50

2007 Red Hill Estate Mornington Peninsula Shiraz
Vibrant colour; red fruit bouquet loaded with attractive spice and undergrowth aromas; medium-bodied, fleshy and exhibiting fine-grained tannins and a long and developing finish. On the day, its elegance, fragrance and length made it a stand-out. 14.5% alc/vol, screwcap
Rating: 94 points
Drink: to 2016
Price: $30

2007 Craggy Range Syrah Le Sol
Intense, powerful syrah with plum, dark berry, chocolate, cracked black pepper, star anise and plenty of classy oak flavours. Rich, ripe and fleshy wine with great fruit and alcohol sweetness perfectly balanced by firm tannins. Seamless with a lengthy finish. Le Sol has consistently excelled since its first vintage, and its supreme class was plain for all to see. 14% alc/vol, cork
Rating: 96 points
Drink: to 2017
Price: $110