The challenge was a hot Indian curry. Beer was the obvious choice, but wine was required. Pinot noir can do amazing things with spicy dishes, but I wasn’t going to take the risk with a young, high-quality pinot or Burgundy. Wandering around the cellar my eye fell on a stranded and long-forgotten 1983 Chateau de La Charrier Santenay Comme Premier Cru Jean Girardin. It opened much as I expected, pale in colour and light in body, but there was some life left in the bouquet – always a good sign. The fruit embers on the palate were fanned by the curry, and danced delicately around the challenge of the dish. This was no gastronomic feast, just dinner for us (Suzanne and I) on a quite cool summer evening, the Yarra Valley spread out below, the only sounds those of the numerous birds that inhabit the surrounding shrubs and trees. I was content.