Golden colour, but with a comforting edge of green. The cork wasn’t in great shape, and the 5 cm ullage was to be expected. The bouquet had no kerosene character, just a mix of lime, honey and toast that was faithfully repeated on the palate. Here, still-vibrant natural acidity clicked in, driving the finish and leaving the mouth fresh. I have slowly moved my way through the dozen bottles I purchased in the early 1990s; it has, of course, changed greatly over that period, but in this final phase of its development gave as much pleasure as any bottle in its youth. Leftover ham finely diced with corn kernels and Chinese rice noodles was a good match. Moreover, as I drank more of the wine, its limey fruit seemed to grow in intensity.