Chinese duck was the dinner, and I wanted a Burgundy with character. Every now and then I dip into a few remaining half bottles of 1978 Charmes Chambertin Marcel Amance, the last consumed some time ago. There was virtually no ullage, amazing for a half bottle well into its 30s. The cork was in fact resolutely glued to the sides of the neck, even defying an Ah So. I chipped it out and poured the wine through a fine gauge stainless steel tea strainer to collect the numerous fragments. Despite the lack of ullage, and despite the dark colour of the wine, it showed some degree of aldehydic oxidation, but the intensity of the flavour made it relatively easy to forget that issue. The duck also helped.