The 20 Australian growers of the Spanish white grape albariño (known in Portugal as alvarinho) thought they were on to something exciting, as did the 11 wineries that had released albariño varietal wines. Then came suggestions it may not be albariño at all. Tscharke, in the Barossa Valley, which had claimed it was the first, and currently the largest producer, was understandably quick off the mark to defend it when the paternity of the wine was called into question.

Interest in the variety had been piqued by its stellar performance in Spain’s Rias Baixas zone, where it became so popular that 90 per cent of the white grapes were albariño, and winemakers were exploring oak maturation and several years’ ageing in stainless steel.

As events unfolded over the past six months, the story resembled Alice in Wonderland: curiouser and curiouser. The first vines had been obtained by the CSIRO and these provided the cuttings for propagation by commercial vine nurseries. Notwithstanding the youth of the vines, it produced wines of genuine merit in the Barossa Valley, King Valley, McLaren Vale and Tasmania – a grape for all seasons.

Then things went pear-shaped. It turned out that questions were raised 20 years ago, suggesting Spain’s albariño was the same variety as savagnin (sometimes with blanc appended), the premier white grape of Jura, France. (In other parts of Europe it is called gringet, païen or heida.)

DNA testing has now established that Australia's stock is indeed savagnin, leaving open the question whether some of Spain's albariño is also savagnin. That is of academic interest for Australian growers, who (for obvious reasons) are acutely unhappy with the idea of labelling it savagnin – an own goal versus New Zealand’s ubiquitous sauvignon blanc.

Back in 1918, W. Percy Wilkinson (director of the forerunner to the CSIRO) patented an all-encompassing series of names combining their European origin with the flavour of Australia. Thus for Burgundy, burgalia; for Chablis, chabalia; for Shiraz, shiralia; and so on and so forth. No one accepted his offer of free use of the terms at the time, but he might rise from the grave and offer albaralia as a neat solution.

Then there’s vermentino, another new (to Australia) variety gaining popularity. Jancis Robinson succinctly put it in her book Vines, Grapes and Wines: ‘This is a variety that deserves more attention.’ Ominously, however, DNA profiling has shown it is the same grape as pigato (from Liguria) and favorita (from Piedmont). If this were not enough, some suggest it is in fact related to the Malvasia family.

The time has come, the Walrus said, to speak of many things – there being no suggestion the Walrus is part of the Australian Wine and Brandy Corporation, which is presently wrestling with the albariño fracas.


2007 Tamar Ridge Research Series 81-1 Albariño
This, as the name suggests, is one of a series of wines from the micro-winery at Tamar Ridge given over to research. This is a wine full of promise, suggesting albariño can adapt well to a range of different climates. Bright, light, straw-green in colour, the palate with exceptional velocity to the citrus, spice and pear fruit.
Screwcap; 13.5% alc; drink to 2013
Rating: 94
Price: $28.30
info@tamarridge.com.au


2008 Tscharke Girl Talk Barossa Valley Albariño
Slightly older vines and a little more experience in the making of the wine have resulted in a style with more substance than some. It has considerable depth to the bright green-gold colour; there is equally positive and fragrant fruit on the bouquet, and flavours on the palate reminiscent of custard apple with a dressing of citrus.
Screwcap; 13% alc; drink to 2011
Rating: 91
Price: $21
sales@tscharke.com.au

2008 Chrismont La Zona King Valley Albariño
It hardly need be said these are early days, and young vines in the King Valley grow enthusiastically if given the chance. Thus the colour is light, the bouquet crisp, then a dry, fresh and chalky palate; while the fruit flavours tend to neutrality, the wine has balance, length and a clean finish, characters which (presumably) earned it a gold medal at the Sydney International Wine Competition ’09.
Screwcap; 12.5% alc; drink to 2012
Rating: 90
Price: $22
info@chrismont.com.au