2000 A&P de Villaine Bourgogne Cote Chalonnaise

This is an unashamedly simple red burgundy from the Cote Chalonnaises, entitled only to the basic Appellation Bourgogne Controlee. It is remarkably fresh, bright and crisp; what it is not is complex or rich. Yet it comes from the La Digoine Vineyard of the owner of Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Aubert de Villaine. This helps resolve the apparent contradiction of a nine-year-old wine from an undistinguished vintage still looking so lively. It is made in the estate winery, and derives nothing from the Domaine, other, perhaps, than the same single-minded attention to detail and refusal to accept anything less than the best. Its very simplicity was what I was looking for to accompany a spiced butterflied leg of lamb, and it worked a treat, however unconventional that may seem.