Pierre Naigeon is living proof Flying Winemakers can travel both ways – and that the brotherhood of winemakers is a universal one. Naigeon is a fifth-generation Burgundian vigneron, who became a wine broker following his father’s death in 1996 and the subsequent sale of most of the family vineyards. The holdings he retains are 0.5 hectares of Bonnes Mares and 0.2ha of Charmes-Chambertin (both grand crus), 0.7ha of Gevrey-Chambertin premier cru and 0.2ha of Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Echezeaux.

It was as a broker that in 2000 he met Tony Leon, then of Dan Murphy’s, and was commissioned to buy burgundies for exclusive sale through that store. The chain of coincidence was extended when he met the Yarra Valley’s Dominique Portet in Burgundy, who introduced him to De Bortoli’s Stephen Webber, who harboured ambitions to make burgundy. Naigeon was uniquely well placed to help Webber and assistant winemaker Bill Downie, sourcing grapes and sharing his small winery in Burgundy with them for the ’03, ’04 and ’05 vintages. From Webber’s viewpoint, this was a learning experience, not a commercial venture, so after three years he called time.

It’s hardly surprising to discover that since the ’04 vintage, Naigeon has been making wine (Clos Pierre) at De Bortoli for exclusive sale to his old customer, Dan Murphy’s. He started with chardonnay and pinot noir, then spread his wings to shiraz from the Yarra Valley and Barossa Valley; cabernet sauvignon from Coonawarra; and, most recently, gamay and sauvignon blanc from the Yarra Valley and viognier from Geelong. For good measure, there are reserve versions of the chardonnay and Yarra Valley shiraz.

This pattern of direct importing by the retailer is increasingly common – Vintage Cellars has been active in this field for years, and there are many more, including ‘bricks and mortar’ retailers (who may also sell wholesale to other retailers) and businesses selling through their websites or by direct email.

Obviously, it irks pure importers and independent retailers who, for one reason or another, aren’t in the game. But it cuts out at least one profit margin, and is unequivocal good news for the consumer. Naigeon (via Murphy) has burgundies ranging from $18.99 (’05 Bourgogne Pinot Noir) to $189.99 for an ’01 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru. I should add that the top-end burgundies are made in tiny quantities, and there are very small allocations for Dan Murphy’s.


2005 Domaine Pierre Naigeon Gevrey-Chambertin Les Echezeaux
On average, two to three barrels of this wine are made each year. The barrels are always new, and the oak impact in this wine is obvious, as are the tannins. This is big-boy burgundy territory, and should be left to its own devices for at least five years, preferably 10 or more, when it will merit much higher points.
Cork; 13.5% alc; to 2025
Rating: 92
Price: $76.99

2007 Clos Pierre Yarra Valley Chardonnay
Naigeon is aiming more to Chablis than white Burgundy with this wine which, while 100% barrel-fermented, receives only 10% new oak, and the early picking has allowed 80% to go through malolactic fermentation. The stone fruit and melon flavours are very well balanced, and it has an excellent finish.
Screwcap; 12.2% alc; to 2013
Rating: 90
Price: $14.99

2005 Domaine Pierre Naigeon Bourgogne Hautes Cotes De Nuits
This wine comes from high-trellis vines such as we see in Australia, yielding a little over five tonnes per hectare; the ferment includes 50% whole bunches which impart distinctive spicy, savoury characters to both bouquet and palate. It has exceptional length and thrust to the finish; bottled by gravity and unfiltered.
Cork; 13.5% alc; to 2014
Rating: 92
Price: $32.99