1978 Morey St Denis Marcel Amance (half bottle)

Bright and clear, with some crusty sediment quickly falling to the bottom of the glass (it was decanted, but in a hurry). On the downside, this is simply a Village wine from a negotiant (which may or may not have made the wine – owner Louis Vallet did both) and is a half bottle. Three strikes against it. On the upside, it is from the glorious ’78 vintage, and has a sinewy, savoury strength that gives the wine great line and length – then a true peacock’s tail on the finish and aftertaste. All in all, little short of a miracle, likewise the fresh char-grilled Tasmanian salmon.